Napoleon

I just finished reading three books by Michael Broers. Napoleon: Soldier of Destiny ends with a cliffhanger of sorts as Napoleon marches his newly created Grande Armée into the War of the Third Coalition in 1805. Napoleon: The Spirit of the Age covers Napoleon’s best years and greatest victories in 1805-10. Napoleon: The Decline and Fall of an Empire picks up in 1811 and tells the last part of the story.

 It is the first biography of Napoleon to use a huge body of his personal correspondence recently made public by the Paris-based Fondation Napoléon. Most Napoleon’s biographies were written by people who either worshipped or hated him; this time the author tries to stay impartial but clearly can’t help admiring his subject.

I like this biography a lot. It is also an informative window into European politics of the time. I didn’t know that young Napoleon and particularly his father were deeply involved in Corsica’s fight for independence – unusually because they were part of the coastal society of Italian colonizers rather than “proper” Corsicans of the interior. Nor did I know that Napoleon was fiercely anti-colonialist in his youth (he was a fan and later a friend of Guillaume Raynal, the father of anti-colonialist discourse) – also a bit ironic because his later politics were imperialistic to the extreme.

Napoleon’s haters often compare him to genocidal maniacs like Hitler or Stalin, or to obsessively vindictive and cruel mediocre populists like Putin or Trump, but he was totally unlike them. He was absolutely not vindictive and occasionally too forgiving (although he always returned favors, sometimes many years later). He had excellent, broad education, and loved learning, particularly applied math (which helped him become a genius artillery theorist). He was often quick to use violence, particularly against rioting mobs, but was never cruel for fun. He was never afraid to surround himself with strong, smart people, and earned their loyalty. (He had an interesting method of making appointments according to candidates’ political views: for example, he knew that leftist revolutionaries made excellent policemen and security chiefs, former clergy was best for diplomatic positions, and old-guard monarchists were great for meticulous bureaucratic work).

As a matter of fact, he wasn’t afraid of much at all. At the age of 26 he designed a plan to wrestle northern Italy from Austrian occupiers, got himself appointed as the commander in charge of the plan, won the war against stronger and more experienced enemy, and created a country for himself without anyone back in France knowing. He even managed to get northern Italy out of total chaos and set it on a path to prosperity (only for a short while, but that wasn’t his fault).

What I didn’t realize until I read the book was that Napoleon was as gifted as an administrator as he was as a military commander. Some of his reforms and innovations were copied by every country in Europe, including his sworn enemies, and are still around today. His approach based on reaching consensus and uniting diverse social groups for common goal almost always worked. The exceptions were the cases when Napoleon, a man intelligent, rational, and deeply logical, had to deal with people who were exactly the opposite, such as fanatical clergy, be it Egyptian Muslims or French Catholics (Swiss Protestants and French Jews got along with him well.) His main achievement, to which he devoted years of his life, was the Napoleonic Code, a smart and flexible legal system on which laws of many countries (and one US state) are still based.

But Napoleon had major flaws. He didn’t realize the limits of his competence. For example, he never understood the adaptive nature of naval warfare but still tried to micromanage it, losing his new, very expensive fleet as a result (although Trafalgar was won by Nelson with great difficulty and at great cost – ironically, Nelson’s military talent was in many ways similar to Napoleon’s). He poured even greater resources into preparing an invasion of Britain that was totally impossible for many reasons. He often veered into realpolitik with predictable results. For example, although he wasn’t racist, he agreed to restore slavery in French colonies to appease Britain and particularly the United States, and that ultimately cost him France’s most profitable colony, the modern-day Haiti.

As all authoritarian rulers, he believed that he could do better than a democratically elected government, and for a few years this seemed to be true (in part because his democratic predecessors, the first ones in France’s history, were predictably lame; in part because they did some of the most difficult work for him, but mostly because he really was better). But his rule ended in disaster anyway, and his mistakes eventually wiped out most of his achievements.

By 1812 he began to lose his grip on reality. He started a war on two fronts while being unable to win on one (in Spain). His invasion of Russia with an army too big to manage or sustain turned into a total screwup even before the first shot was fired; it proceeded to a totally senseless but unprecedently bloody battle of Borodino and ended with losing virtually the entire army to cold, disease and Russia’s British cannons. The only thing that saved Napoleon from perishing there completely was Russian high command’s incompetence.

After that he kept winning – or, increasingly, almost winning – battles but losing wars. He always had poor health and, like many in his family, aged prematurely – or perhaps it was the inevitable effect of decades of extreme stress that would have killed most people much sooner. By 1813 he sometimes failed to personally command his troops even in most important battles, and whenever he delegated command, it ended badly. Napoleon never minded lying to the public, and loved plebiscites because he always published fake results, but in later years he lied constantly, even to his closest associates, and that led to chaos.

The end result of Napoleonic was six million dead, untold millions of maimed, raped, and destitute, most of Europe turned into wasteland (even Britain, which never saw fighting on its soil, was nearly destroyed by economic fallout), loss of any hope of liberation for French colonies, Italy, Finland and Poland, and restoration of inept monarchy in France (with a lame constitution, concocted by the king himself upon insistence by the Tzar, of all people).

So bad, in fact, was that restored monarchy that just a few months later northern and eastern France and much of the army welcomed Napoleon back (the south was always too Catholic and the west too Royalist to support him), resulting in the exact repeat of the disastrous end of his first rule. By that time every country in the world except the United States was France’s enemy, and French army was outnumbered six to one, but Napoleon still wanted to keep conscripting and fighting. His only motivation by that point seemed to be keeping power for himself and, eventually, for his son. It backfired: Napoleon was sent to rot on a remote island where he soon died of hereditary stomach cancer; his innocent son lived his short life under virtual house arrest. His nephew later did become his successor, France’s last (and very effective), monarch, but Napoleon didn’t live to see it.

So Napoleon’s successes are not a good argument against democracy. And he was the kind of leader that some countries get once per century, and others never at all. Most authoritarians do much less good, and some do even more damage.

Weekend in Washington

We spent the weekend in Washington, DC. Usually looking its best in spring, the once proud capital is a sad sight under enemy occupation. Its imperial grandeur now feels like mockery. Its great museums are half empty; some exhibits are being removed or changed, reportedly to comply with the new rulers’ neo-Nazi ideology. Dozens of police cars with blaring sirens barrel down streets from one protest march to another. And you can’t stop thinking about the great country this city once governed, now a walking brain-dead corpse, rapidly rotting away.

Washington has always reminded me a bit of Saint Petersburg. Both were bult by young empires trying to out-Europe Europe and look more civilized than London and Paris. But the similarity is paint-deep. Washington was mostly built by well-paid free craftsmen, and only to a small extent by slaves. Saint-Petersburg was built by forcibly conscripted serfs who died by tens of thousands in process. The most prominent buildings in Washington are museums, public offices, and libraries. In Saint Petersburg it’s palaces of the aristocracy, churches, prisons, and offices of companies extracting natural resources from colonies. Washington has nice climate and is a reasonably livable (despite traffic) city, a place where the natural choices of hobbies to take up are birdwatching, jogging, and sushi bar hopping. Saint Petersburg has dismal climate, and once you step away from main squares and boulevards, the architecture gets so depressingly claustrophobic that the natural choice of a hobby to take up is butchering babushkas with an ax.

Despite their differences, both empires ended in the same way. They were brought down by cartels of criminals controlling populist political parties and bankrolled by their respective countries’ worst enemies. The Bolsheviks in 1917 were financed by Germany, the Republicans in 2024 – by Russia. The Russian Empire never became truly civilized again: 108 years after the Revolution you can still be sent to rot in Gulag because some Party official wants your business, dislikes something you said, or has to fill a quota for arrested “enemies of the people”.  It remains to be seen if the US will ever be able to climb back out of the same cesspit.

Zombie country

My friends from abroad are asking me what’s going on in the US. My short explanation might also be of interest to fellow Americans since they don’t seem to get it, either.
1. After decades of massive disinfo campaign, a criminal organization pretending to be a political party has seized all branches of our government.
2. That organization is under control of an enemy country, and is following orders to destroy our country and assist the enemy.
3. Our president has been a Russian asset since the 1980s. I am pretty sure his seemingly bizarre cabinet picks are all selected from that same pool. The entire Republican leadership has been aware of that fact for many years and is very happy about it.
4. Since we now have a puppet government, we are no longer an independent entity. In biology, the term for a creature with brain controlled by a parasite is “zombie”. We are a zombie country.
5. Unless the government is removed, our fate will be the same as the fate of a beetle directed by a parasitic worm to drown itself.
6. Our government doesn’t care if its suicidal policies are unpopular. That means it is confident of its ability to steal all future elections.
7. We are well past the stage when peaceful protests might have had any effect whatsoever.
8. The percentage of people understanding what’s going on and caring about it is totally insufficient even for a general strike, not to mention the extremely bloody and painful struggle required to avert the inevitable.

Mudslides in the mist: Cusco in the rainy season.

We spent our spring break in Cusco, flying there and back with overnight stays in Callao for plane changes. The kids hadn’t been to South America yet, my wife always wanted to see the area, and I love Peru since my first trip there 30 years ago, when I hitchhiked through the entire country N to S and spent a few absolutely fantastic weeks working in Manu National Park. I traveled across Peru again in 2007, in the opposite direction, trying to visit only new places and going after certain species I particularly wanted to see. Of course, even though Peru doesn’t look large on the world map, it is a country of numerous mountain ranges, labyrinthine valleys, and roadless forests, so it would take a lot more time to explore it thoroughly.

March is the last moth of the rainy season in Cusco. The weather was perfect for hiking in relatively dry valleys around the city but a bit wet at higher elevations and in cloud forests. There were much fewer tourists than in the dry season.

Back in 1995 Peru was a desperately poor country, with millions of malnourished children and a guerilla war still burning in many rural areas. By 2007 life had improved a lot, and I expected the country to look even more developed this time, but it didn’t. Roads are still bad, other infrastructure is also inadequate, and there is a lot of poverty – although much fewer street beggars. Villages away from the main road are still knee-deep in mud, and air pollution is terrible even in places with relatively little traffic.

Cusco has grown perhaps tenfold in 30 years, so there’s a lot of traffic jams and smog, but otherwise it looks pretty much the same. Considering how much money comes from tourism, I am sure some people have accumulated big fat Swiss bank accounts during that time. But in the city, even major intersections often lack streetlights, while the so-called expressway has too many because there’s apparently no money to build simple pedestrian bridges. Cusco is still worth visiting for its architecture and tragic but fascinating history, but I wouldn’t stay there for more than a couple days if it wasn’t for the family. Go to Cajamarca instead if you can – it’s much less touristy, quieter overall, and Inca architecture is better preserved there.

Back in 1995 I didn’t have money for car rental or commercial tours, so I went to Machu Picchu but missed all the Pre-Columbian sites around Cusco. This time we visited six of those, not counting a few smaller, unguarded ruins that you can simply walk in anytime. They turned out to be more interesting than I expected – all different and fun to explore, with a great mix of nature and culture. To me it felt a bit like traveling in Greece, with precious historical details hidden among otherwise destroyed cities, small but beautiful wildflowers growing between ancient stones, mountain cavies (wild ancestors of Guinea pigs) instead of rabbits, and lots of birds in small Mediterranean-style trees. The birds, of course, were more exotic than in Greece: these ruins are a great place to see some of the world’s most beautiful hummingbirds. The kids loved those ruins, too: plenty of rocks to climb and fountains to chill in. In Sacsayhuaman there is even a 15th-century children’s playground with somewhat scary slides (polished grooves in limestone dropping you at great speed into a muddy puddle) – imagine the fun!

To enjoy the ruins properly you need to know their history. To refresh our memory before the trip we read The Last Days of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie. The instant destruction of Aztec and Inca Empires by handfuls of conquistadors taking the emperors hostage is probably the history’s best illustration of the extreme vulnerability of regimes granting too much power to the monarch – something we now see in the US where the ruler is also under control of an enemy country. Among the new things I learned from the book was that Pizarro’s invasion was not the first contact between Tawantinsuyo (the Inca Empire) and Europe. A few years earlier a Portuguese adventurer named Aleixo Garcia lead a band of Guarani Indians from modern-day Paraguay to plunder the Empire’s southeast, but the Incas quickly repelled the invaders without learning about the European leading them. The Guarani called the Empire “land without evil” because nobody was ever hungry or homeless there – something neither Spanish nor Peruvian governments of Peru have ever achieved.

Some of the world’s most scenic and biologically diverse wilderness areas are also around Cusco, but you have to drive for at least three hours to reach them, and the roads are dangerous during the rainy season due to daily landslides. So I went there by myself, leaving Cusco in the evening and returning after some early morning birding. I explored a few popular birding sites such as high-elevation puna grasslands, paramo moors, and temperate forests at Abra Malaga pass (4300 m), which proved equally good for (very fluffy) mammals at night. And, of course, I went back to my beloved Manu National Park. This time I could visit only its upper edge – the first 30 kilometers of the famous Manu Road.

In just 80 km, that road drops in wide switchbacks from puna grasslands at 3500 m to lowland Amazonian forests below 600 m (it then continues for another 60 km, but that part is less exciting). Back in 1995 I walked all of it twice, walking up 20 km at night, back down in the morning, then hitchhiking to the next 20-km portion, sleeping in the forest through the afternoon and repeating. At that time the road was unpaved and got zero nighttime traffic, so from dusk till dawn it turned into a very busy animal trail – I saw plenty of mammals in addition to mind-blowing variety of birds, frogs, and insects. Nowadays the road is paved (although you still drive through mud a lot due to landslides), and there is always some traffic, so I didn’t see any mammals on the road except for one rice rat. I did find a few mammals (including some I missed in 1995) in puna grasslands and cloud forests, but only because this time I had a thermal scope.

The cloud forests look absolutely magical in rainy season, exploding with blooming orchids, bromeliads, and bejarias. If you are lucky and it’s not misty all the time, you can see some incredibly colorful birds, particularly if you run into a mixed flock dominated by tanagers (watching hummingbirds is not as much fun as in the dry season because only bright sunlight fully brings out their iridescent colors).  I’m glad I’ve now been there in both seasons because a lot of things – wildflowers, birds, views – are very different. It was too cold up there for reptiles, but I expected to see a lot more amphibians – and didn’t. Heard only a few frogs and rescued one rather unremarkably looking toad from the road. That was a big disappointment because some high-elevation amphibians of Peruvian Andes are really cool. There were very few insects, too, and almost no bats – only a few flying around and one munching on a beetle inside an abandoned building. You could tell there weren’t many bats in cloud forests by looking at the flowers: almost all are red (adapted to pollination by hummingbirds and bumblebees), rather than white (better visible at night). If I had time to get below 1000 m things would be very different: lower Manu is one of the bat-richest places on the planet.

The road passes through a couple of short, partially flooded tunnels. That part is sufficiently popular among birders to be listed as a separate birding hotspot on eBird (look for golden-headed quetzal and Yungas owlet among other goodies), but apparently not a single birder has ever bothered looking inside the tunnels. I found nesting and roosting chestnut-collared swifts there that were not even on the checklist for that hotspot.

I wasn’t very enthusiastic about re-visiting Machu Picchu because it takes five-six hours to get there from Cusco (not to mention the cost), and because I think the place is a bit overhyped, but the family insisted. Back in 1995 there were only a few people there; you could explore the entire complex for as long as you wanted and then walk back down to the railway station – that road is one of the top birding sites in the world, particularly for hummingbirds. At night you could enter the ruins without a ticket. Nowadays the crowds are much worse, all tickets must be bought weeks or even months in advance, you must buy 4 separate tickets to see the entire thing (which is the size of a large stadium), and walking the road isn’t much fun due to heavy bus traffic. On the bright side, decades of protection have allowed local wildlife to recover a bit: the ruins are now full of mountain viscachas (we saw only their burrows because of rain), and in the cloud forest you can see a super-cute endemic species of chinchilla rat that was originally described from  bones in Inca burials, was long thought to be extinct, and is only now becoming less rare.

We had to drive from Cusco to Ollantaytambo (the train boarding place) twice because on the first day the trains were cancelled due to a landslide. Another landslide blocked the shortest road, so the drive took more than two hours each way. I’m still not sure it was worth it. Other ancient sites in Peru are no less scenic and get hardly any visitors – when I went to Kuelap in 2007 there were no other people at all (and lots of wildlife, including some very rarely seen species). But the family didn’t mind the trouble of getting to Machu Picchu, the rain, and the crowds, so why would I?

Overall, the trip went well. The kids were happy the whole time, although the younger one took half a day to acclimate to Cusco’s elevation of 3400 m (the older kid didn’t seem to notice the altitude at all). They got to pet baby alpacas and see flying condors at arm’s length (in Cochahuasi wildlife rehabilitation center near Pisac). I took them to a chocolate making class, followed by excessive consumption of the product. My wife took them to a traditional weaving class which they all enjoyed. She was blown away by the beauty of Machu Picchu, which wasn’t guaranteed at all – not just because of landslides and ticket shortages, but also because the whole place can be shrouded in mist this time of year. Everybody loved Andean food, beautiful art in museums and shops, and friendly people (who miraculously turn into mean, hard-headed, suicide-prone scoundrels the moment they get behind the wheel). Nobody got sick. The children kept themselves entertained during long car and train rides. I got some sorely needed extreme driving practice (it’s been a few years since my last trip to a country with truly challenging traffic and road conditions), and also my first bulldozer driving practice in ages (had to help a road crew deal with yet another landslide), saw a few birds and mammals that I’d missed during my first two trips, and spent some precious time in sublime mountains.

I hope to get back to Peru again sometime – there are still huge chunks of the country I haven’t seen, including most of the Amazon lowlands and many parts of the eastern slope of the Andes. I think the family would like it, too. You can never get too much of South America!

A belated book review

In 2024 I read a bunch of non-fiction books, but very little fiction. Fiction just can’t compete with non-fiction nowadays. Anyway, the best non-fiction book I read in 2024 was (drumroll)… The White Mughals by William Dalrymple.

It’s a stunning love story from the late 18th century Hyderabad. I learned a lot about the British Raj from that book – most importantly, that the early 19th century was a moment of radical change in British attitudes. Up until that time, most Britishers who came to India or oversaw Indian politics back at home were full of respect and curiosity towards Indian cultures. When one of the book’s protagonists was about to send the children he had fathered with a local woman to a boarding school back in England, he was concerned that they would be picked on by other boys – not because of their darker skin, but because of their Scottish accent. These people truly loved India despite suffering there terribly: having no resistance to tropical diseases, they seldom lived long, with less than half surviving the first three years.

But in the early 19th century a new generation of British officials was put in charge, and there was a rapid shift towards more racist, strong-armed policies. “Going native” was no longer permissible. That change destroyed the lives of the best British officers in India and sowed the seeds of both the Mutiny and the ultimate failure of the Raj in the 20th century. Because yes, the Raj ended in failure. Not only were the British kicked out, but the country immediately fell apart and the three chunks didn’t even begin to seriously modernize until the early 21st century, when it was too late.

The best fiction book I read in 2024 was actually a series of 17 fantasy books for young teenagers called Wings of Fire. I had to start reading them because my ten-year-old daughter couldn’t talk about anything else. I very rarely like fantasy, but these books are refreshing and charming. And the main reason I like them is because they are written as a master class in creative writing, but not in an obvious way. Not an easy treat to pull off.

The first book I read in 2025 was Hell on Ice by E. Ellsberg, the tragic story of the 1879-81 polar expedition of USS Jeannette. The book was written in the 1930s, so it omits some inconvenient details (like one of the expedition members suffering from syphilis, or a few Yakut guides needlessly dying during the completely hopeless rescue mission in the Lena Delta), but it is otherwise very good – an essential reading for anyone interested in the history of travel and geographical discovery. The ship froze into ice floes just a few days after passing through the Bering Strait, spent nearly two years slowly drifting, and was crushed by ice. The crew survived a grueling crossing of ice floes, lost a few people in a storm while trying to reach the Siberian coast, and then found themselves in freezing, but not yet frozen, Lena Delta where towns shown on their maps didn’t exist. Most of them suffered terrible frostbite and eventually starved; only 13 of the 33 expedition members survived. They thought they had only a discovery of a few small islands to show for it, but their tragic experience provided a lot of new knowledge about the Arctic that was subsequently used by Nansen’s Fram expedition, and countless other Arctic expeditions since. Also, these tiny islands were later sites of two amazing discoveries: mysterious underwater eruptions and a totally improbable Stone Age human settlement, but that’s a different story.

Now I am reading Napoleon: Soldier of Destiny by Michael Broers. Which will be a subject of a separate review.

Adventures of the English language

1. The habit of using “like” in almost every sentence as a kind of punctuation mark originated in Devonshire dialect. It was imported to American English in the 17th century and locally persisted in rural New England but went virtually extinct in Devonshire. In the late 20th century, it suddenly began to spread like wildfire among young Americans. By the 2010s it infected British English via American TV shows and became very fashionable in its native land where only a few linguists remembered its origin.

2. Originally English had two forms of 2nd person pronouns: singular “thou” and plural “ye”. “Ye”, or later “you”, was also a polite form used when addressing strangers or people of higher social status. Gradually “you” replaced “thou” completely (except in some dialects in northern England and Scotland). But more recently “y’all”, a new form of 2nd person plural, has emerged in American English and is rapidly gaining popularity in the US and parts of Canada. It now seems possible that “you” will eventually become solely the 2nd person singular.

3. English is becoming a more isolating language (meaning that the words that mean things don’t change and are instead connected by many small words). This gradual change started with massive French influence following the Norman conquest. Some linguists say it’s a one-way process of grammatical simplification typical for languages used by many non-native speakers (like Spanish and Mandarin), others think it’s part of a very slow cycle that all languages go through, becoming isolating, then agglutinating, fusional, and then analytical again. Anyway, for an isolating language it is more natural to use single characters for words (like in Classic Chinese), rather than an alphabet. English is trying to move in that direction, but the process is nearly blocked by the use of fixed-layout typewriters and, more recently, computer keyboards. Still, more and more whole-word characters are popping up (©, ™, $, %, &, #, @, †, :-), , , , , etc., etc.). As computer input methods evolve, the dam will sooner or later break and English writing will very quickly become more like Mandarin (which, accidentally, has already solved the input problem).

Wild New Jersey

This morning I had my best field trip in New Jersey so far, and I don’t think I’ll ever have a better one.

I went to High Point State Park for some early morning skiing. Turned out there wasn’t enough snow to ski through the forest, so I decided to use a frozen lake. It was -18 C/ 0 F, so the ice was likely thick enough for a herd of elephants to walk on. When I got to the lakeshore, I saw some animals running across. There wasn’t much moonlight, but with a thermal scope I could see that it was a pack of coyotes chasing a young deer. The deer seemed weak and didn’t run very fast; the coyotes caught it easily. I expected a slow kill (coyote teeth are smaller than wolf teeth, and optimized for smaller prey), but within two minutes the deer was dead and the coyotes started fighting over it.

I realized that I had to get moving or risk serious frostbite, so I walked up the lake. The coyotes were so busy eating that they didn’t notice me walking within a stone’s throw from them. By the time I got to the spruce/tamarack bog at the top of the lake, the dawn was breaking, and I noticed that the snow was completely covered with tracks of some small, short-tailed animals. I waited for a while and spotted a southern bog lemming running between tussocks – the first one I’ve seen in New Jersey, where they are generally rare. A few tracks were particularly tiny and probably belonged to short-tailed shrews.

At sunrise I turned back. The coyotes were resting around the kill, curled like a bunch of fur hats. This time they were very alert, spotted me when I was half a mile away, and left. A pair of ravens attracted by the commotion immediately landed on the carcass. I considered taking some venison, but the deer was picked nearly clean and totally frozen. A bald eagle and a few black vultures (unexpected in this kind of weather) were watching from lakeside trees, waiting for me to leave. Would be great to watch the carcass for a while to see if anything else would show up, but leave I had to, because of family duties.

Hidden Wonders

25 absolutely amazing places in USA that are barely known to outsiders (in no particular order). I’ve been to all of them except the last two.

1. Cathedral Gorge State Park, Nevada.

2. Goblin Valley State Park, Utah.

3. Wahweap Hoodoos in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah.

4. Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness, New Mexico.

5. White Pocket, Buckskin Gulch, Coyote Buttes and Lower Paria River in and near Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona.

6. Eternal Flame Falls in Chestnut Ridge Park, New York.

7. Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest in Nantahala National Forest, North Carolina.

8. Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida.

9. Caverns of Sonora, Texas.

10. Ruby Falls, Tennessee.

11. Como Bluff dinosaur graveyard, Wyoming.

12. Lake Waiau, Hawaii.

13. Yakutat area, Alaska.

14. St. Matthew, Hall and Pribilof Islands, Alaska.

15. Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest in White Mountains Wilderness, California.

16. Sea Lion Caves, Oregon.

17. Dinosaur Ridge, Colorado.

18. Chaco Culture National Historic Park, New Mexico.

19. Acoma and other pueblos, New Mexico.

20. Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Utah.

21. Sun Miguel Island in Channel Islands National Park, California.

22. Ketchikan area, Alaska.

23. Horseshoe Canyon in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

24. Midway Island, Hawaii.

25. Blue Lake Rhino Cave, Washington.

What’s on your list?

Moscow today

An Azeri airliner tried to land in Grozny (in Russian-occupied Chechnya), was mistaken for a Ukrainian drone, shot and damaged (but, notably, not shot down despite being the easiest target possible), and told to fly to Kazakhstan (a thousand km away) where it crash-landed killing half the passengers. Apparently, once Russians realized they had shot it by mistake, they sent it to fly over the sea (and started jamming GPS signals) hoping that it will fall in the water destroying all evidence and witnesses.


Meanwhile, Bashar al-Assad’s wife said she wanted to divorce him (probably wanted to do it forever but knew she wouldn’t survive such a declaration back in Syria) and return to her home country (Britain). Moscow authorities denied she ever said that, locked her up in solitary, and declared she is dying from leukemia. Knowing too much in Russia is even more dangerous than flying.


But Moscow this year has insane density of Christmas lights and everybody is partying like crazy. Nobody cares about consumer prices rising, economy circling the drain, provinces running out of food and fuel. They expect Trump to fix all their problems and help them win the war – and all future wars.

List of civilian aircraft previously shot down by USSR/Russia:

1952: Air France flight F-Beli, a Douglas C-54, shot down near Berlin but managed to land. 3 people killed.

1962: Aeroflot flight 902, a Tu-104, shot down and crashed near Krasnoyarsk. All aboard (50-110 according to different sources) killed.

1978: Korean Air flight 902, a Boeing 707, shot down near Murmansk, but managed to land on a frozen lake. 2 people killed.

1983: Korean Air flight 007, a Boeing 747, shot down near Sakhalin Island. All 269 people aboard killed.

1993: Two Georgian planes shot down near Sukhumi by Russian-backed Abkhazian separatists using Russian missiles. 136 people killed and 20 severely burned.

2014: Malaysia Airlines flight 17 shot down near Donetsk by Russian paramilitaries posting as separatists using a Russian missile. All 298 people aboard killed, including 80 children.

My commentary on the US elections

Why did more than half of US population choose to press the self-destruct button? I haven’t seen a reasonable explanation anywhere. People point to high housing prices or other economic issues, to supposed mistakes of Democrats, to Biden’s senility. But all these explanations are demonstrably wrong. The economy was the best since the 1950s, and not just for billionaires, but for pretty much everybody. Dems ran a picture-perfect campaign. Biden was no less senile than Trump.

Moreover, hardly anyone understands the magnitude of what just happened.

So let me briefly explain.

The West has just lived through nearly 80 years of peace and prosperity unparalleled in human history. This period of time was an outlier in every possible metric. People are used to happy endings in books and movies, so they expected this age of bliss to become eternal – the happy ever after. But that’s not going to happen.

As Ibn Khaldun pointed out more than 600 years ago, people living in peace and prosperity quickly become weak and stupid, and invariably get conquered by primitive and ruthless invaders from the desert. That’s what has been slowly unfolding in the West, beginning with the collapse of support for left-wing parties in Europe – precisely the parties that had created that universal prosperity in the first place.

By the 2000s, the democracy in most Western countries was just one election away from a takeover by right-wing populists. And every time those populists made gains, the educated elite was dumbfounded by the suicidal stupidity of the electorate. How could voters not understand that they were choosing to have their life support system destroyed? How could anyone vote for Brexit? For Orban? For Le Pen? How could Germans vote for AfD after what happened to them under Nazis? How is Trump even possible?

There was one and only one thing you have to know about a person to predict how that person would vote: their source of news. People who were capable of critical thinking and could filter out obviously fake news kept voting for centrists or moderate left. People who were too stupid to do that voted for the right. As the intellectual decline of the West continued, fewer and fewer could figure out what was happening. And the political right gradually adapted to corner the stupid vote.

In the US it started with Nixon. If the majority of Americans still had fully functioning brains in 1974, the GOP would cease to exist at that time. Instead it survived, moved to Reagan who used populism as cover for triggering runaway inequality, then to Bush Jr. who made systemic lying the foundation of his politics, and then inevitably to Trump.

What will happen next? It will be very difficult for the West to recover from this hit. Having a Russian asset as a dictator in what used to be the world’s most powerful democracy will likely mean a rapid global takeover by China and its vassal states such as Russia. As the US betrays some of its allies, others will run to save their skins and join the international cartel of crooks and thieves. Democracy will be replaced by corruption-based oligarchy, free market – by crony capitalism, rule of law – by massive pilfering of public funds.

The problem is, this new world order is unsustainable. These people can’t create, they can only exploit or destroy. They will fight among themselves, steal obsessively, drive their economies into the ground, and then cling to power at any cost even if it requires killing most of the population.

All of this is unfolding in the worst possible moment. Our environment is falling apart. It would take very strong global cooperation and lots of smart political choices to slow down the climate catastrophe, the loss of arable lands and natural habitats, the degradation of ecosystems. The window for doing this the nice way has almost closed. The world will survive, but the hard way – through mass extinction and mass starvation. Billions of people will die, huge chunks of the planet will turn into dead zones, and nuclear war will become even more inevitable. Then everything will recover, but it will take millions of years, and humans will not be around to see it happen. Can we still save ourselves? I don’t think so, but we have to try because saving the West for as long as possible is our only hope of survival.

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