I am a zoologist and a writer. I study animal behavior and conservation, and write about nature, travel, and whatever else comes to mind. My permanent website is dinets.info
Here are my books – message me if you’d like a signed copy.

I am a zoologist and a writer. I study animal behavior and conservation, and write about nature, travel, and whatever else comes to mind. My permanent website is dinets.info
Here are my books – message me if you’d like a signed copy.

One of the most unique, fascinating, and intensely beautiful parts of our planet is the Pacific Northwest (PNW) – a narrow band of rugged seaboard with relatively mild, permanently wet climate, stretching for over 3000 km from Kodiak Island in Alaska to Eureka, California. The southernmost part of this dark-green band is relatively easy to explore, but soon after you cross into Canada it turns into a sparsely populated labyrinth of countless islands, meandering channels, heavily glaciated mountains, and narrow fjords where travel is complicated, time consuming, and very expensive. I’ve been there many times since my first trip to California’s Redwood National Park on the day I bought my first car in America almost thirty years ago, but there are still large chunks of PNW I haven’t seen – and until last week those gaps included one of its most magical treasures, Haida Gwaii, previously known to outsiders as Queen Charlotte Islands.
So after months of planning I recklessly abandoned my loving family for a week, spent most of my airline miles, and flew to Vancouver. (If you are not familiar with Canadian geography, just imagine a much larger but geographically, culturally and architecturally similar version of Perth in Australia. In South America, where much of Chile is a mirror image of PNW and California, the geographical counterpart of Vancouver is the nice city of Puerto Montt.) After a couple days of diving and snorkeling in the Salish Sea, mountain lakes and fast rivers, I put the suitcase with my diving gear in storage at the airport and took a flight to Haida Gwaii.
There is no way to make it a cheap trip. I usually sleep in the car when traveling alone, but car rental is insanely expensive on Haida Gwaii. You can avoid it by taking a ferry from Prince Rupert (which costs almost as much as the flight), but that only makes sense for longer trips, otherwise you spend nearly as much money getting to Price Rupert, a day’s drive from Vancouver. To cut the costs a bit I traveled with a small backpack; that saved me the airline luggage fees. Diving on Haida Gwaii is reportedly fantastic, but I didn’t have time for it anyway.
The islands have never been connected to the mainland, but during the last Ice Age they greately expanded. As the ice shields pressed down on much of the continent, the land just outside the glaciated area was pushed up, like mud gets pushed up around your foot when you step on it. Haida Gwaii got raised about 150 m above their current elevation, resulting in the emergence of a vast land area around the islands, reaching almost all the way to the mainland coast. Then the ice shields melted, the islands quickly sunk back, and the sea levels rose, leaving Haida Gwaii more remote and crisscrossed by narrow straits and inlets – flooded former glacial and river valleys. There are two large islands, separated by just 30 m of water at low tide, and numerous smaller ones. All but the tiniest islands are covered with dense forests of giant conifers, with lush meadows on some shores and at high elevations.
Many birds, a few mammals and one species of toad have managed to colonize Haida Gwaii, mostly when the sea crossing was narrow, and have since evolved into unique subspecies (more about that later). I wanted to see as many of them as possible, and carefully scheduled my brief time on the islands to explore the more accessible parts. But soon after landing I made a quick stop in the local Haida cultural museum – and got stuck there. It was just too interesting.
The Haida people have lived on Haida Gwaii since the last Ice Age. Their language is an isolate. Incredibly, their oral history (or the fragments of it that have survived the disastrous consequences of European contact) describes them arriving from northern Alaska and settling on the islands before the Last Glacial Maximum (a particularly cold period within the last Ice Age) – that would be about 25 kya (thousand years ago) – then having to move to Puget Sound area to the south during the Maximum, and returning as soon as it ended and the islands became ice-free. Only the latter part has been confirmed by the archeological record, currently going back 13 kya (13.8 if you count stone fishing weirs recently found on the seafloor east of the islands, at the depth of 120 m). But lack of earlier remains might be due to the rise of the sea level at the end of the last Ice Age, 10-12 kya, since the Haida always lived on the coast and all older settlements would now be underwater. It is also possible that the story of having to move south during a cold spell refers to the Younger Dryas, a cool period around 12 kya, at the very end of the last Ice Age, but that’s unlikely because Younger Dryas didn’t cause deforestation of the islands like the Last Glacial Maximum. Haida stories describe how the people returned to treeless islands, had to live on the tundra in grass (likely meaning sod) houses and fish from shore because there was no timber for cabins or boats, and then witnessed the arrival of the first tree species, the lodgepole pine, followed by others, with the western red cedar the last to come. That narrative has been confirmed by palynological record. The red cedar was particularly important for the Haida, because it grows to giant size and is used for everything from houses to totem poles, but most critically for large ocean-going canoes. What it all means is that the Haida appear to have by far the longest scientifically confirmed oral history of any nation, even if the earliest part is discounted.
Once the Haida could again make seaworthy vessels, they developed into a maritime culture, routinely navigating the dangerous waters of PNW despite the terrible weather and some of the world’s strongest tidal currents. They traded widely, but also raided, particularly in the Puget Sound area where many Salish people ended up being taken and enslaved – those raids earned the Haida a nickname “Vikings of the PNW” from European explorers. Just before European arrival, the Haida began territorial expansion, settling part of Prince of Wales Island in what today is the southern tip of Alaska Panhandle.
Despite the raiding, the Haida were deeply integrated into the common cultural space of PNW that included many peoples of different origin, some as ancient as the Haida, some relative newcomers like the Tlingit whose genetics and language still have discernable connections to particular peoples in Asia. In addition to trading, there were alliances that could last for many centuries, the potlach system of feasting and exchanging gifts, the now-famous, amazing and unique art style, and similar social structure with hereditary aristocracy, widespread slavery, and clan system. Each tribe in the region was divided into clans (usually two, like Eagle and Raven Clans in the case of the Haida and the Tlingit) that were tabooed from marriage within the clan, and required to build houses, carve totem poles and generally work for the other clan. Children belonged to their mother’s clan.
When Europeans arrived, there were some conflicts (just like the Maori, the Haida were cunning enough to regularly capture visiting ships), but soon a booming trade developed, with the Haida selling sea otter pelts to European traders who transported them to China at huge profit, and later panning gold from the islands’ rivers. All of that came crashing down as outbreaks of Old World diseases, particularly smallpox, killed more than 90% of the Haida n the 19th century. By that time the Europeans knew well how to prevent smallpox, but chose not to vaccinate the Haida, burning entire villages instead. The inability of Haida healers to do much about the new diseases undermined the traditional belief system and made the Haida easy prey for missionaries who quickly got busy destroying what was left of the culture. Potlucks and traditional arts were banned, matrilineal system replaced with patriarchy, and teaching Haida language made illegal. Children were forcibly sent to boarding schools, sometimes as far as Alberta. Haida villages, once majestic complexes of beautifully decorated wooden houses with towering totem poles, became sore clusters of shoddy cabins surrounded by garbage piles. Out of more than a hundred villages, only two remain on Haida Gwaii, and the Haida are a minority on their islands. But they preserved enough of social cohesion and collective intelligence to win a prolonged, difficult struggle with Canadian government and save most of the islands’ forests from clearcutting. Today there is an effort to revive the nearly-lost language, and the art is a major source of income.
All roads and villages are in the northern part of Haida Gwaii. The southern part is a virtually uninhabited national park, very expensive to access. I wasn’t planning to go there, but ended up getting a free visit by seaplane. No journey to remote parts of PNW ever goes without logistical adventures.
Unfortunately, the islands are not as pristine as they look, even though they’ve done better than most islands around the world. The Haida killed off walruses and brown bears in ancient times, and sea otters during the trade boom; the endemic subspecies of caribou (the only one with antlerless females) was hunted to extinction in the early 20th century. The red fox also mysteriously went extinct in ancient times; nobody knows what could do in such an adaptable species, but I suspect it was some disease that humans brought with their dogs. As you drive around the islands’ few roads at night, almost all animals you see – deer, raccoons, frogs – are recent introductions; it takes some effort to see the native toad or any native mammals other than bats and seals. I would’ve missed some mammals altogether but a local lady told me about a dead whale on one of the beaches. The whale was in the late stage of becoming a pool of liquid with only bones sticking out, but still attracted bald eagles during the day and carnivores at night, although some of the latter were probably after maggots rather than meat.
As all remote islands, Haida Gwaii is unique – even compared to adjacent parts of PNW. Many species look different here. Most are darker, but a few are lighter, and some just more colorful (the local races of pine grosbeak and western toad are particularly beautiful). Some, like the bear and the marten, are larger; others, like the short-tailed weasel and the goshawk, are smaller. They also behave differently. The Steller’s jay, an abundant and noisy bird throughout PNW, here is inexplicably rare, quiet, and so secretive that many visiting birders miss it. The brown creeper, which elsewhere feeds mostly on lower parts of tree trunks, here is a canopy bird, probably because the lower levels of the forests are too dark. The sooty grouse is partially nocturnal (probably because it’s the favorite food of the islands’ nearly extinct goshawk). The Pacific shrew here lives in meadows instead of forests. The saw-wet owl, which on the mainland prefers dense conifers, here hunts in open spaces and even chases seafood in the intertidal zone. The river otter is pretty much confined to seashores on Haida Gwaii, the marten and the stoat are also largely coastal and all three have unusually massive skulls and teeth adapted for eating crabs and mollusks. (The stoat has become extremely rare for unknown reasons, possibly because it turns white in winter but in recent decades there’s been hardly any winter snow except in the mountains.) Black bears of Haida Gwaii are the largest subspecies on average, and also have massive skulls and teeth, in this case because they live largely on salmon. The local race of goshawk, also very rare (estimated to be down to 50 adults), is adapted to feeding exclusively on birds since prior to the introduction of squirrels and muskrats the islands didn’t have any small diurnal mammals. Most amusingly, local belted kingfishers (which are not even considered a separate subspecies, despite sounding so differently that Merlin app fails to recognize them by voice half the time) behave like kookaburras, perching on utility wires along roads far from water, presumably to hunt for frogs, shrews and dragonflies.
Haida Gwaii have only one species of shrew and one native rodent, a mouse, but both of these have not one but two subspecies described from the islands: in each case, one subspecies inhabits the two main islands, and the other is found on small Kunghit Island at the southern tip of the archipelago. But J. Bristol Foster, who did the most thorough study of Haida Gwaii’s mammals to date for his Ph.D. thesis, found that the reality is much more complex. It turned out that the shrews and the mice look slightly different on each of the smaller islands. The shrews differ between islands in somewhat chaotic way. But the mice, in addition to differences in coloration, are larger and more short-tailed on smaller, more remote islands. If non-native black or brown rats get introduced to an island or manage to swim there, local mice quickly evolve to be smaller and longer-tailed, possibly because it allows them to escape the rats by climbing onto tall grass and thin branches. If an island undergoes a deratization program, the trend reverses. There s a lot to be learned here, but to my knowledge there’s been no follow-up study. All I can say is that those mice are handsome animals, probably the most beautiful mice in North America, but frustratingly difficult to find: in many hours of walking with a thermal scope in prime habitats I saw only a few and managed to photograph just one, a cute but boringly grey juvenile. Maybe it was a bad year for them, or maybe I was wrong about their habitat preferences, or maybe they are truly uncommon.
It was a great trip and I was lucky to see some animals I hadn’t hoped for. The biggest disappointments were not diving (the sea in the islands’ bays is so clear that you can see the bottom down to maybe 10 m) and not seeing the reportedly stunning view from the top of Sleeping Beauty Trail. That infamously steep and difficult trail is the only way to access high-elevation forests and meadows on Haida Gwaii (unless you can charter a helicopter), but after climbing muddy slopes, rotten stairs and rope-equipped vertical cliffs for four hours I saw nothing but rain and dense fog – couldn’t even find any of the islands’ endemic wildflowers that all grow above the tree line. My consolation prize was catching a glimpse of a goshawk on the way down.
I hope to bring my family to Haida Gwaii someday – probably after the kids learn to scuba dive. It’s such a magical place, and not really that difficult to get to. But I‘ll probably re-do the Sleeping Beauty trail by myself – it’s too much for normal people.
If you wrestle with someone for too long, you begin to stink of his sweat. – Mongolian proverb.
No issue is more polarizing than the so-called Israeli-Palestinian Conflict. Pretty much everyone in the world supports one side (often chosen at random) with devotion bordering on (or developing into) a psychosis. And pretty much nobody has a full understanding of what is actually going on. Israelis and Palestinians are in complete denial. People lucky to be outside of the region combine that denial with profound ignorance because nobody ever bothers to understand both sides’ points of view. Over the last few years, I’ve asked many people who use the slogan “From the river to the sea Palestine will be free” to name the river and the sea. Virtually no one can. During the same time, I’ve asked many people who say “there’s no apartheid in Israel” to tell me what theythink the original South African apartheid was like and how it was different. Incoherent but increasingly aggressive mumbling was all I ever got in response.
So let me explain. It’s all simple, basic, and plainly obvious, but nobody else will ever tell you, because of the above.
1. Ancient history.
Just like any other part of the world except a few remote islands and the Antarctic, the humorously named “Holy Land” (hereafter THL) has been conquered, reconquered, and ethnically cleansed multiple times. But in this case the history is particularly long and bloody, or maybe just unusually well-documented since most regional players have had writing systems and the natural environment is conductive for archeology.
Anyway, by the 1st century A.D., THL was a prosperous Roman province with irrigation-based agriculture and highly educated, diverse population. But there was constant tension between coastal cities that had been Hellenized for centuries and the more traditional highlands where people were fanatically religious. Their messianic religion was a relic of a pastoralist society, but increasingly bureaucratic and obsessed with ritual. To the horror of the cosmopolitan elites, the highlanders started a series of doomed revolts against Rome. They scored some hits (even destroyed one legion using the same tactic the Incas would use centuries later to score their only major victory against the Spanish), but eventually each revolt was squashed with increasing brutality. Roman reprisals forced most of the population into emigration, creating a Jewish diaspora throughout the empire. Within a century, THL was largely depopulated, and Jews once again became a nomadic people, a bit like Gypsies a thousand years later, but moving mostly between urban centers. Soon THL was resettled by people from other parts of the empire, and Jews became a minority there, although they never left completely.
The Jews, however, had their last laugh over the Romans. Christianity, a dumbed-down and initially more relaxed spinoff of Judaism, export-oriented and centered on zombie worship, masochistic guilt, and glorifying of slavery, spread like wildfire across Pax Romana. In the 4th century it became the official religion of Rome, smothering its vibrant culture and plunging the empire into rapid fracturing and decline. As for THL, it was turned into a Jesus theme park dotted with fake historical sites and pilgrim traps, many of which are still making money today.
THL then changed hands a few times before being conquered by Arabs in 635. The newcomers gradually converted some of the population to Islam (a reworked mix of Judaism and Arian branch of Christianity, with emphasis on traditional pastoralist values, oppression of women, and constant warfare). Those who chose to stick to Judaism or Christianity had to wear yellow stars around their necks (Jews) or blue clothes (Christians) and pay special tax. But it probably wasn’t too bad: evidently, life under successive khalifates was better than pretty much anywhere else at that time except maybe Tang China. Arabic quickly replaced Aramaic as the lingua franca of THL, but Muslims remained a minority.
Those good times ended in 1090. THL was repeatedly invaded by Crusaders, Mongols and Mamluks (an army of former slaves mostly of Turkic origin), all of whom slaughtered or drove out much of the population. The Mamluks also destroyed all port cities to discourage new crusades. Peace didn’t fully return for over a century, by which time Muslims became a majority. The Islamic world never returned to its former glory: as Europe very slowly and painfully clawed itself out of the Dark Ages, the Middle East became increasingly stagnant.
With growing expulsions and mass persecutions of Jews in Europe, there was a constant trickle of Jewish immigration to THL which became a stream in the late 15th century. By the time of the Ottoman conquest (1516), Jews and Christians living there were in a somewhat profitable position. Christians, particularly priests, were making a good living by performing slave castrations (Muslim slave owners were prohibited by the Shariah law from doing it themselves) – it was a great source of income as millions of slaves from Africa and Christian lands were traded through the area. Jews were pretty much the only people who could trade in both Christian and Muslim worlds; they invented the banking system, and a few of them became very rich although their position in either world was never truly safe. By 1844, Jews were the largest religious group in Jerusalem (of the total population of about 15k). The entire population of THL at that time was just over 300k; it was 88% Muslim (including Druze), 9% Christian and only 3% Jewish.
2. Zionism.
At the end of the 19th century millions of Jews moved to the US and Western Europe to escape prosecution in the Russian Empire. For almost two thousand years, diaspora Jews viewed THL as their promised land that they should one day return to. Perhaps now was the time? THL was sparsely populated, land was cheap, and the rural economy could use some modernization. The idea and the political movement centered on it became known as Zionism. By the onset of WWI, about 100k European Jews had moved to THL.
After the war THL was under British control, supposedly more enlightened than the 400-years Ottoman rule. For a while, the British supported Jewish immigration, in part because many viewed it as the only force capable of shaking the Middle East out of its centuries of stagnation. They envisioned Jewish Palestine as a steam engine that would pull forward the entire region – much like Hong Kong in China decades later. Meanwhile the Russian Empire collapsed, and the resulting civil war was accompanied by pogroms reaching the level of genocide. Between the world wars, hundreds of thousands of Jews moved to THL, buying land, establishing agricultural communes, building irrigation systems, creating a democratic government for themselves. They were still a minority, but that was obviously about to change, even though the British increasingly tried to slow down the immigration.
Muslims of THL, who by that time almost universally considered themselves Arabs, were increasingly unhappy about this. Local economy was in terrible shape due to growing population and worldwide economic downturn. Some people profited from the influx of immigrants, but most didn’t – instead, local peasants found themselves increasingly outcompeted by the newcomers and had to move to impoverished cities. The Arabs didn’t want to become a minority in their own land, and many didn’t want any changes in traditional culture. They viewed Jewish immigration as part of British colonial takeover, not very different from Crusader colonialism of the past. The Arabs’ position was not unlike that of Jewish rebels of the Roman times who revolted against Hellenization, but the irony was lost on everyone. The Arabs started a chain of pogroms against Jews, including a massacre of all Jews in Hebron in 1929. In the 1930s, Nazi propaganda along the lines popular with all right-wing parties in the West today (“the Great Replacement”) was hugely successful. An Arab uprising in 1936-9 was brutally crushed by the British. By that time Jewish communities were rapidly arming themselves and their militias were terrorizing Arabs, bombing marketplaces and forcing farmers off their land.
At the same time the Nazis were trying to expel all Jews from Germany, but all other countries denied them entry, and Britain banned immigration to THL almost completely. Germany became a death trap, and prosecution of Jews began in countries occupied by Germany or allied with it, including Iraq and much of North Africa. By 1945, six million Jews had been killed, but Britain still banned Jewish immigration to THL. Illegal immigration, however, became a flood that the British could no longer control, even though they put thousands of Jews into concentration camps. Jews now made up a third of THL’s population and were waging a guerilla war against British colonial rule. It was probably the last opportunity for Jews and Arabs to make peace and unite against the common enemy – but neither side was any longer interested in peace.
In 1947, the British decided the whole thing wasn’t worth the trouble and asked the UN to take over.
3. The Partition.
At that time Britain was facing a similar problem in India, where a colony about to be given independence was torn between two religion-based communities. In India the British partitioned the territory, in THL they didn’t. The result was the same: massive bloodshed and decades of wars.
The UN, however, did try to partition THL. It came up with a checkerboard pattern, with Jewish and Arab states each consisting of three parts, all touching in corners. It also told Britain to remove all barriers to Jewish immigration. Everybody knew there will be war, but the British didn’t want to leave in a way that would angry Arab countries, so they left a lot of weaponry and hilltop fortifications to the Arabs. Thousands of Arab volunteers poured into THL, followed by armies of seven Arab states. They laid siege to Jerusalem and declared their intent to restore THL as an Arab country. Notably, some Arab villages opted for peace with the Jews in 1947. But by 1948 all of them were drawn into the war, except one (Abu Gosh, a peaceful and prosperous place ever since).
Hundreds of thousands of Arabs emigrated to escape the war, becoming the first Palestinian refugees. But Jews had nowhere to emigrate. Instead, they organized themselves into what would become the world’s best fighting force. On the day the last British soldiers left THL, the Jews proclaimed the new State of Israel on the entire territory. They managed to obtain some heavy weaponry from Czechoslovakia and produce some themselves, eventually lifted the siege of Jerusalem at great cost, and took over most of THL. Only parts occupied by Jordan (the West Bank and Eastern Jerusalem, formally annexed), Egypt (Gaza Strip), and Syria (a slither of land in the northeast) remained under Arab control, and were constant sources of guerilla infiltration (or terrorism, depending on your definitions).
Approximately 1% of Jews in THL died in the war; the number of Arab casualties is unknown but probably somewhat similar. Almost 80% of Arab residents (over 700k) had left, voluntarily or not; most of them were Muslims but about 10% were Christians. The new state quickly passed a law preventing them from returning. It was a national catastrophe (Nakba in Arabic) for Arabs of THL. All Arab countries where the refugees went, except Jordan, settled them in huge, overcrowded and impoverished refugee camps and made it impossible to get citizenship. The idea was to forever keep them willing to go back and fight with the Jews again. Jordan later came to regret its hospitality: in 1970 Palestinians tried to overthrow the monarchy and invited a Syrian invasion. After weeks of fighting the Jordanian army killed thousands of them and expelled the most militant factions to Lebanon.
The UN created a special agency (UNRWA, the largest UN agency) for Arab refugees from THL and still considers their descendants refugees (unlike the descendants of all other refugees in the world). But those Arabs who remained were given full citizenship and mostly equal rights, at least on paper. In reality there are all kinds of discrimination; Jewish Israelis love to point out that Israeli Arabs have much higher standards of living and more political and personal freedom than Arabs in any country bordering Israel, but that’s a very low bar.
4. The warrior ethnostate.
Since day one, there were three major problems with Israel, and the fact that it was created on somebody else’s land and surrounded by enemies was just one of them.
The main problem was that Israel had been conceived and founded as an ethnostate. The concept of a state created for a particular ethnic group first emerged in the 19th century, and in the 20th century proved to be the worst idea in human history, causing two world wars and multiple genocides including the Holocaust. It was to work the same way in THL.
The third problem was that the founders of Israel considered Judaism to be the most essential part of Jewish culture and gave a lot of power and privileges to the clergy and the most fanatical religious sects. The opposition to this suicidal policy was so strong that the country never agreed on a constitution, but it failed. Religious fundamentalism became a lethal disease that increasingly consumes the country from the inside, as the proportion of secular Jews (who have created the state of Israel, made it prosperous, and defended it with their lives) is steadily declining through lower birthrates and, more recently, emigration. The number of essentially parasitic ultra-Orthodox Jews is growing exponentially and is forecast to reach 1/3 of the population within a generation. There are now more first-graders in religious schools than in secular ones. It is estimated that in each generation, about 15% of the ultra-Orthodox leave their communities and choose secular life, but that’s not nearly enough to offset the population takeover.
But by the end of the 1940s Israel was full of optimism, despite constant threat of invasion, Arab guerilla warfare, economic boycott by Arab neighbors, and extreme economic hardship in general. More than a million Jews soon arrived from Europe (where antisemitism in many countries only got worse after WWII) and from the Middle East (where centuries of relative tolerance suddenly ended and governments began to violently persecute and forcibly expel their Jewish minorities). Almost none of the new arrivals were recognized as refugees by the UN, so there was no aid except reparations from Germany and money borrowed from the Jewish diaspora, particularly in the US. The Soviet Union pulled all support when it became clear that Israel was not to be their client state with Stalinist economy, and sided with Arabs in all subsequent conflicts, sometimes sending not just billions worth of weaponry, but also fighter pilots and other combat personnel.
Up to that time Israel was basically a Western colonial project; now about a half of its Jewish population was suddenly of Middle Eastern and North African origin, including people from essentially medieval communities in places like Yemen and later Ethiopia. Despite wildly different cultural backgrounds and some tension (as an Israeli saying goes, the second to last wave of immigration always hates the last one), the society worked incredibly well, kept together by external threat and exhilarating feelings of freedom and independence after 19 centuries of being everybody’s favorite scapegoat and punching bag. The fact that the whole concept was based on events and foundation myths from almost two thousand years ago didn’t bother anyone; even secular Jews now believed it was their promised land and manifest destiny, and constantly quoted the Book of Exodus.
In 1956, Israel decisively and easily won a war with Egypt (caused by Egypt closing the Suez Canal and the northern Red Sea to Israeli shipping) and would likely take Cairo if it wasn’t for international pressure. But all Arab countries were still clamoring for war. Hatred of Israel and calls for liberating THL from Jews became the favorite rallying call for every Islamic government in the world, and after decades of propaganda became the unifying cause of modern Islamic culture – but the same governments kept treating Palestinian refugees as dangerous animals that had to be confined, so there was no shortage of Palestinians willing to die in suicide missions.
In 1967, Egypt closed the Canal and the Red Sea again, and armies of four Arab countries began to mass on Israeli borders. Israel responded by preemptive strikes that destroyed Soviet-made Egyptian air force, and within six days occupied all of THL, plus the Sinai Peninsula (which it eventually returned) and the Golan Heights (which it eventually annexed). Despite being heavily outnumbered and outgunned, Israel inflicted casualties on the Arab armies at the rate of 20 to 1.
The Six-day War was the highest point in Israel’s history. It changed the worldwide perceptions of Jews and filled the country with immense self-confidence and millions of new Jewish immigrants, particularly from Muslim countries (where the war generated yet another wave of persecution) and from the Soviet Block (where moving to Israel became an obsession for many ethnic Jews). But it was a Pyrrhic victory, even though nobody understood that yet. Things were to go only downhill from there.
By the onset of the war the Arab population of Gaza, the West Bank and Eastern Jerusalem was well over a million; between a quarter and a third were forced to leave during and immediately after the war. Then Israel offered full citizenship to Arabs in East Jerusalem (where most people refused) and the Golan Heights (where villagers were mostly Druze rather than Muslims), but not in Gaza and the West Bank.
People escaping from something bad often recreate it in their new home. When freed African slaves from the US established a new country called Liberia in West Africa, they immediately enslaved the native population and forced it to work on plantations. Russian immigrants to the US mostly vote Republican because the Republicans are trying to turn the US into a clone of authoritarian, corruption-based, hate-centered Russia. Israel was created by people escaping from ghettoes, and now it created two giant ghettoes for Arabs.
As for the Arabs, PLO (Palestine Liberation Organization, led by Yassir Arafat), which by that time became by far the most important Palestinian faction, decided that trying to destroy Israel by open warfare was hopeless and that terrorism was the only way. Terror attacks against Jewish Israelis in THL and abroad became commonplace.
5. The forever war.
For the next sixty years, the two peoples operated under the premise that the other side could be forced to leave if enough pressure was applied, neglecting the fact that there was nowhere to go and both sides considered the land their own.
Israel fought another war with Egypt in 1969, and was almost wiped out in a surprise attack by Egypt and Syria (heavily armed by the Soviet Union and aided by troops from many other Muslim countries and the Soviet Block) in Yom Kippur (Judgement Day) War of 1973. The latter war was so bad that Israel briefly considered using nuclear weapons, and the Soviet Union moved nukes to Egypt to respond if that happened, but in the end Israeli troops were threatening Cairo and Damascus. Both sides suffered heavy losses, this time with a ratio of about 6 to 1; both Egypt and Syria killed or tortured to death almost all Israeli POWs and numerous civilians.
The war left the Israeli society deeply traumatized and paranoid; many came to believe that peace with Arab neighbors was impossible. Right-wing parties began to gain popularity. It is important to note that in Israel, the ideal balance between free enterprise and socialist state is generally believed to exist already, so political terms “Right” and “Left” mostly refer to different approaches to the relationships with Arabs inside and outside the country. The global stereotypes of left-wingers as naïve hippies and right-wingers as dumb racist thugs are fully applicable, nonetheless.
Meanwhile, Arab governments increasingly realized that by refusing to trade and otherwise cooperate with Israel they were inflicting a lot of self-damage, but now they were hostages of intense anti-Israel sentiment they themselves had been whipping up for over 30 years. In 1979, Egyptian president Sadat signed a peace treaty with Israel and was assassinated within two years. PLO shifted its center of operations to southern Lebanon, took full control of the area and began to conduct bloody terror attacks from there. Israel responded by repeatedly invading Lebanon, and occupied Beirut in 1982. The Lebanese prime minister agreed to sign a peace treaty but was also assassinated. Israel forced PLO fighters to move to Tunisia and then allowed local Christian militias to massacre Palestinians in two refugee camps.
Expulsion of PLO didn’t bring peace to the Lebanese border. The occupation of Lebanon ended in 1990, but the Lebanese themselves became increasingly hostile towards Israel, particularly the Shi’a Muslims, who made up about a third of the population, were generally at the bottom of the social ladder, and were supported only by the young Islamic Republic of Iran – now the most determined anti-Israel force in the region. Iranian emissaries created Hezbollah, a militant organization that has dominated Lebanon ever since. At first Hezbollah pretended to be mostly a mutual-aid NGO channeling Iranian funds to the poor, but as soon as it took firm control of Shi’a communities, it quickly changed into a death cult-based army that tried to become de-facto government of Lebanon. In the following decades Hezbollah kept Lebanon a poor, unstable, corrupt country with non-stop economic crisis and massive emigration, not to mention regular wars with Israel, always fought on Lebanese territory.
In Israel, the right-wing political forces increasingly dominated the political landscape. Their base was the new Religious Zionist movement, essentially a copycat of the German Nazism of the 1930’s, complete with Lebensraum concept but quoting the Torah rather than Mein Kampf. Zionism had always been accused of being a version of fascism, but that clearly wasn’t true… until it was.
Religious Zionists pushed the government to build Jewish settlements in occupied Gaza and West Bank; the settlements became incubators for new generations of Jewish Nazis who in turn built new settlements. Very quickly, West Bank was sliced into an archipelago of Arab enclaves modelled on South African Bantustans of the Apartheid era, separated by fortified hilltop settlements, military bases, walls and checkpoints.
The immediate goal of this was to make the so-called “two state solution” – a version of the partition originally mandated by the UN in the 1940s – impossible. The ultimate goal was to somehow push all Palestinians out by making their life conditions intolerable. Where they were supposed to go, nobody could say, but nobody really cared. The settlers started terrorizing Palestinian villages, cutting olive trees, burning houses, beating or murdering people. The government pretended to respond, but in virtually all cases the Jewish terrorists got a slap on the wrist, if anything.
As the chances for two-state solution faded, there remained a possibility that in some distant future, the “one state solution” could become a reality. Despite being treated worse than Jews in most ghettos, Palestinians were slowly rebuilding their economy and increasingly integrating into Israeli life. They were an essential source of cheap labor, and everyday contacts became more common. But that was about to end.
6. The loss of hope.
As the Israeli occupation of Gaza and the West Bank grew ever more oppressive, the local Arabs, who now were increasingly known as Palestinians, couldn’t take it any longer. In 1987 they started a massive uprising, the Intifada, originally mostly non-violent but not for long. Israel responded with disproportional brutality. During six years of hostilities more than a thousand Palestinians and more than a hundred Israelis were killed and many more wounded.
Around the same time, Palestinians dissatisfied with heavily corrupt and inefficient PLO created Hamas, a Sunni Islamist organization. Just like Hezbollah, Hamas originally positioned itself as a largely humanitarian NGO building schools and hospitals, but very quickly turned into yet another death cult. Israel initially supported Hamas to undermine the secular, more moderate PLO and prevent the creation of the Palestinian state.
Many still thought the two-state solution was possible. In 1993 and 1995, Israel and PLO signed the Oslo Agreements, supposed to give Palestinians increased autonomy and eventually their own state; in exchange they agreed to recognize Israel (and thus drop claims for its territory). More militant Israeli and Palestinian factions, including Hamas, opposed the agreements and continued terror attacks. Israel responded by building a wall around Gaza and further restricting Palestinian movement; an influx of immigrants following the collapse of the Soviet Union provided an alternative source of cheap labor, complimented with imported laborers, mostly from Asia. Both one- and two-state solutions were becoming impossible, especially after the assassination of left-wing president Rabin by a Religious Zionist terrorist. Soviet immigrants were mostly extremely racist and supported right-wing parties, so the political shift continued.
In 2000, the talks to finalize the Oslo Agreements collapsed. What exactly happened and who was to blame is still unclear, in part because the parties’ positions were never put into writing. The main sticking points were the status of East Jerusalem (which both sides wanted for religious reasons), the territorial continuity of West Bank, and, most importantly, the right of return for Palestinian refugees (who had very high birthrates and already numbered in millions) to Israel as well as Palestine. Israel was afraid to eventually become a Jewish-minority state and understood that returning property would likely cause a civil war. Arafat knew that his constituents still believed that the refugees would someday reclaim their lands and homes. The two-state solution will never be a real option again.
Within two months, the second Intifada was on, further severing economic ties between Israel and Palestine. It was much more violent than the first, with rockets regularly fired at Israeli cities. Israel pulled all its settlements and troops from Gaza, replacing occupation with blockade, supposedly to prevent the import of weapons. It also began to build a wall around the West Bank, as well as huge desalinization plants to cut the dependance on water sources there.
In 2006, Hamas won the legislative elections – the only real elections in the history of Palestine – and next year took full control of Gaza, violently expelling the PLO. Israel tightened the blockade, making life in Gaza increasingly dependent on smuggling. Hamas and Hezbollah kept firing rockets into Israel; Israel kept assassinating their leaders and periodically sending troops to Gaza and southern Lebanon. Military operations in the West Bank were becoming more routine, and settler terror more brazen and violent. All civilized ways of changing the status quo had been exhausted, but the status quo was increasingly untenable.
In 2020, one Arab country after another began to give up the boycott and normalize relations with Israel. Support for Palestinians was still high among Muslims worldwide but was steadily eroding among Arab governments. As the outside threat was diminishing, Israeli unity began to weaken. Secular Jews were emigrating in growing numbers, and for the first time draft dodging became an issue.
In Palestine, meanwhile, the sense of national unity was only strengthening. Israeli pressure was forging the new Palestinian nation, just like Arab pressure helped forge the new Israeli nation seventy years earlier. But unlike young Israeli state, Palestine remained a depressive place, with catastrophic overpopulation (following decades of having some of the world’s highest birthrates), ever-growing poverty, increasingly violent fighting between factions, and well-justified sense of desperation. Gaza was in particularly bad shape, as Hamas terrorized its population and used virtually all foreign aid to build a network of tunnels and arm itself.
7. No lesser evil.
After the 2022 elections, Netanyahu, an indicted criminal, became the prime minister for the third time (with two gaps). His government was by far the most extreme right-wing in Israeli history. He immediately started to undermine the democracy, put fanatical Religious Zionists into positions of power, and sacrifice the competence of the military for political purposes. As every far-right government around the world, Netanyahu’s government heavily depended on constant lying, creating a fictional alternative universe for its electoral base. A few years earlier, Sheldon Adelson, an American billionaire and later the largest financial backer of Trump, launched Israel Today, a free newspaper designed as far-right alternative to fact-checking media. By 2022 it was the most read newspaper in Israel.
The resulting disaster came sooner than anyone expected. In 2023 Hamas staged a surprise invasion, hoping to seize most or all of THL, and if that didn’t work out, to at least disrupt the normalization of Israel’s relations with Saudi Arabia. In an attack eerily reminiscent of the failing wall scene from 2013 movie World War Z, Hamas breached Israeli defenses and went on a rampage. Numerous Gaza civilians joined the massacre. More than two thousand people – Israelis and foreigners – were killed or taken hostage; there were numerous cases of rape and torture.
The Israeli government saw that as its chance for the final solution of “Palestinian problem”, at least in Gaza. A military campaign against Hamas immediately turned into genocide. One of the world’s most densely populated cities with half of the population under 18 years old was carpet-bombed. At least 5% of Gazans were killed and twice as many wounded; more than 80% of all buildings and pretty much all civilian infrastructure destroyed or severely damaged; the entire population was repeatedly pushed to the brink of starvation.
It quickly became clear that the idea of Israel’s moral superiority over Arabs, carefully cultivated by Israel and its allies since the 1940s, was no longer sustainable. The numbers of Palestinian casualties published by Hamas health ministry were more accurate than the ones given by Israel. Cases of Israeli soldiers intentionally killing paramedics, journalists and children became commonplace. Thousands of Palestinian prisoners were routinely tortured in Israeli prisons and kept in worse conditions than Israeli hostages in starving Gaza. The more rabidly neo-Nazi ministers of Netanyahu government were openly calling for ethnic cleansing and telling troops to see every Palestinian over the age of 12 as a terrorist sharing responsibility for the murders of 2023.
Netanyahu was widely blamed for the Hamas invasion and attempted to hold on to power by waging constant wars on all fronts. In response to Hezbollah firing missiles into Israel on Iranian orders, Israel invaded Lebanon twice in three years; each time Hezbollah suffered heavy losses but retreated to the north and then came back. Its popularity in Lebanon and the flow of money and weapons from Iran were declining but not sufficiently for any serious change to the status quo. Israel conducted military operations in Syria, undermining the chance for lasting peace with a country that got an Israel-tolerant government for the first time in many decades. It also conducted two large-scale bombing campaigns in Iran (the second one jointly with the US), killing much of the country’s leadership, but, again, not achieving any permanent change.
8. There is no future.
The campaigns in Gaza and Lebanon were technically self-defense but clearly disproportional, the campaign in Syria and bombings of Iran were illegal acts of aggression. Israel’s support abroad is plummeting, particularly among younger people. But inside the country it’s the opposite: young Israelis and Palestinians hate each other even more intensely that older generations. Their parents used to mingle at bazaars and construction sites, but almost all interactions between people born after the second Intifada are violent. People who grew up watching videos of Palestinians massacring Jews at a music festival during the invasion of 2023 or seeing their entire city bombed into rubble by Israeli planes don’t want to hear about one-state or two-state solutions anymore. But they don’t offer their own solutions other than genocide. Popularity of Hamas dropped in Gaza where it wages a campaign of terror, but keeps growing in the West Bank, and even in Gaza there is no shortage of wannaby martyrs. Young Israelis increasingly support far-right parties.
The saddest thing about this century-long fight to the death is that soon there might be little left to fight for. THL is grossly overpopulated. For decades both sides were dumb enough to have a lot of children because their propaganda was telling them that they could somehow outbreed the enemy. And both sides firmly believed that the land could accept an unlimited number of immigrants. Two centuries ago, there were 300,000 residents in THL and the land was already under stress from overgrazing and water shortages. Today there are 10 million people in Israel, 5.6 million in Gaza and West Bank, and nearly 5 million Palestinian refugees outside THL, a third of them still living in refugee camps which by now look more like city slums than stereotypical tent camps. Two million Gaza residents, on the other hand, do live mostly in tents because their homes have been destroyed.
There is less and less water. The Sea of Galilee, THL’s only large freshwater lake, is drying out despite water being pumped in from coastal desalinization plants. The Dead Sea level is dropping by a meter a year because virtually no water is coming from Jordan River. A half of all drinkable water in Israel now comes from desalinization, but the plants consume a lot of energy and are vulnerable in case of another major war. The climate is getting hotter and drier: by 2100 the temperatures will likely rise by 3-5OC compared to 1948 and the precipitation will fall by 10-20%, which is a lot for an already arid region.
Israel has been much better at nature conservation than its neighbors, but it’s falling behind other developed countries in switching to renewable energy despite having nearly unlimited solar resources. In the West Bank things are much worse, and Gaza is a total disaster. The world, meanwhile, is becoming an ever less hospitable place for refugees.
Looking back today, we can clearly see the chain of tragic events in the past that have led to the hopeless present. The failure of Jewish settlers and Arab natives to find a way to live together in peace (that would be very prosperous), the increasing role of bloodthirsty religious fanatics on both sides, the refusal of Israel to quickly end the occupation of Gaza and the West Bank, the founding and creeping expansion of Jewish settlements there, the delusional Palestinian hopes for large-scale return of refugees… all of that has turned THL into a black hole that can only keep destroying lives and resources.
But it’s easy to blame people of the past because we assume the alternative would be better, which it could be… or not. If Bar Kokhba didn’t start the last suicidal revolt against Rome, there would be no ethnic cleansing, and most Jews wouldn’t end up in the diaspora… but the humanity today would be decades, if not centuries, behind in science and technology. If Zionism never became a thing, there would be no conflict… but millions of Jews around the world would still have nowhere to escape from hatred and persecution. If Amin Al-Huseini, the Mufti of Jerusalem, didn’t align with the Nazis to fight Jewish immigration, perhaps the settlement could continue in relative peace… but there was clearly not enough land for everyone, and the war would likely start anyway. If one-state solution was pursued from the beginning, perhaps it could work… but it failed in Lebanon, which was originally carved out by Britain and France as a country where Arab Christians would be a majority, but soon became Muslim-majority due to slightly different birth and emigration rates, went through a long civil war and ended up being little more than a human shield for Hezbollah. If Israel got serious about two-state solution and withdrew from the West Bank and Gaza instead of occupying them, or changed its mind about the one-state solution and offered the people there full citizenship, perhaps there would be peace today… but most likely not, considering that Israeli citizenship is mostly rejected by Arabs of East Jerusalem and that withdrawal from Gaza only made things worse. To me it looks like there was no hope from the beginning.
People around the world must understand that this is not a good vs. evil conflict. This is not like Russian invasion of Ukraine where peaceful, intelligent people are fighting off a plague of brain-dead ghouls. Neither Israel nor Hamas deserve your support. The only help worth providing, other than emergency aid to prevent mass starvation, is helping as many people as possible to emigrate.
It is also important to understand that supporting Hamas has nothing to do with Arab or Muslim unity, and not supporting Israel has nothing to do with antisemitism. If you want to be a good Arab and/or a good Muslim, press your government to give citizenship to Palestinians in refugee camps and accept more immigrants from Gaza and the West Bank. If you want to prevent antisemitism, press your government to cut all support of Israel, which is today an openly fascist state and the main cause of antisemitism worldwide.
I lived in THL for half a year in the early 1990s but left because I could see where everything was heading. I still have friends in Israel and in the West Bank (the only person I knew in Gaza hated Hamas and managed to escape before 2023). But, despite being ethnically Jewish, I don’t want to have anything to do with that place, or to be defined by my ethnicity. I am an Atheist, my motherland is planet Earth, and I don’t like killing children to steal their land. I have more in common with a fellow zoologist from Gaza than with a Torah-toting terrorist from the settlements. All I want for THL is for normal people to be able to get out before their lives are destroyed by murderous fanatics.
I am tired of the media posting human-like images of Neanderthals and melting down over their “love affairs” with our species.
First of all, these facial reconstructions are based on techniques and artistic traditions developed for modern humans, so they are mostly useless. We have no idea what Neanderthals looked like, but they were certainly very much unlike us: they had different growth trajectory, different physiology, different brain structure, massive bones and muscles, likely better night vision, probably a lot more body hair, and certainly a myriad other differences we are not aware of. There is plenty of evidence that their faces were a lot more ape-like than usually portrayed.
Second, the way we inherited their genes tells with brutal certainty how it happened. There are very few Neanderthal genes in our X chromosomes, meaning that it was always Neanderthal males mating with our females. Anthropologists know very well what it means: such pattern is observed after invasions and conquest where native males get killed and females raped.
That’s probably what our initial contact with them was like. Later our species, which was a generalist while they were specialized big game hunters, overwhelmed them with advanced technology such as atlatls and bows, starved them by driving large mammals to extinction, and ultimately killed them all, jus like it killed all other hominids.
A while ago, Danny Vendramini published a book titled Them + Us: How Neanderthal Predation Created Modern Humans. That was just before the presence of Neanderthal genes in our genome became known, but he guessed a lot of this. Unfortunately, he pushed his theory way too far, so the book wasn’t taken seriously. But I suspect he was right about a lot of things.

I moved from Russia to the US in 1997, and rented a room in Berkeley, California. I lived in the state for five years, moving to a new place every year, and then spent two years in Davis in 2013-15. My older child was born here.
I remember the day when I first got here, and marveled at the fascinating geography of San Francisco Bay from the landing plane. I still celebrate that date as my second birthday. It wasn’t my first trip out of Russia, so I wasn’t a stereotypical naïve immigrant, but I was still amazed. My first few years here were an absolute bliss despite working very hard jobs and having very little money. And I was always acutely aware that being able to live in California at all was a huge privilege that billions of people would die for, although their reasons were mostly different from mine.
Now I am back in Berkeley for a couple weeks. The city is much less livable than it used to be, everything costs 2-3 times as much as in New Jersey, there is a record heat wave completely unheard of for March, the state is being slowly destroyed by the fascist federal government, the IT industry and the climate change, but it is still so ridiculously wonderful! The ecosystems, the biodiversity, the views, the weather, the everything. And being here is still a privilege.
I just hope California survives.
For the first time in my life, I wish the winter wouldn’t end so soon.
Also for the first time in my life, I am going to write about sports.
You see, I am not a sports person. I hate spectator sports. I get bored with competitive sports after one hour tops, usually much sooner. The longest I can tolerate any sport is a full day of downhill skiing once in a few years. The only sports I can enjoy even longer are ones that allow me to get to interesting places – like cross-country skiing or mountain climbing. But that’s not really sports for sport.
Yet this year I kind of came up with a new sport and enjoyed it. It’s cross-country skating.
It’s not entirely new. Skates were invented in present-day Finland about 5000 years ago, likely by hunters, for travel across frozen wetlands. Finland was a perfect place for that: the country is a labyrinth of sprawling lakes, slow rivers and large swamps.
But then skates became toys… and now I was probably the first person in centuries to use them for their original purpose. It was absolutely amazing. Later I found out that cross-country skating is actually a popular thing in places like Alaska and Scandinavia under the name “Nordic skiing”. People there use long-bladed detachable skated and ski poles. Well, the same thing can be independently invented many times.
Unfortunately, I bought skates just as the winter was coming to an end. Today is probably the last day for safe cross-country skating before the weather becomes April-like. Fuck the fossil fuel industry and the politicians it owns.
But I did manage to do some exhilarating late night runs along frozen rivers in Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, and one on Delaware River. It only works on broad, slow rivers, large lakes, and open marshes where ice is smooth and snow gets blown away by the wind. Nights are better because they are cold and you are not in danger of being “rescued” by overzealous police or park rangers.
You don’t have to be a great athlete, but you need to be reasonably sure-footed and know the basics of travel on ice. It takes only a few minutes to learn to jump over cracks and avoid bumpy patches.
The difficult part is finding good access. Sometimes you just park near a small bridge, drop a ladder on the ice and climb down. Sometimes you have to ski down the riverbank. But once you are on ice, it’s just pure fun.
You slide swiftly across the glassy, snow-rimmed surface that sparkles slightly in star- or moonlight. The air is sharp and crispy, and keeps you cool and fresh no matter how fast you run. The forest is dark and silent, but dry reeds whisper quietly even in slightest wind. The only other sounds are the high-pitched hissing of your skates, the occasional cracking of ice, and very rarely a distant song of an owl or an alarm call of a startled deer – they don’t recognize the sound of skates as steps and sometimes let you approach very closely. But most animals stay in the relative warmth of dense woods on cold nights, and seldom show up on open shores. Once in a few hours you see a dead bird or some other carrion frozen in ice, surrounded by tracks of mink, raccoons, foxes, ravens or fish crows. It’s very easy to cover long distances, even with a backpack (although I haven’t yet tried it with a really heavy one). My leg muscles hurt afterwards, but I hope it’s only until I get more practice.
I now think of my brief exploits as proof-of-concept tests. Next winter, weather and family obligations permitting, I’d like to do a long skating trip somewhere in Canada, ideally to circle Manicouagan Meteor Crater along its ring-shaped lake. That’s about 220 km; after some training I could probably do it in 2-4 days. I haven’t camped on ice or snow in ages, but wouldn’t mind a skills refreshment, and it’s a beautiful part of Quebec, so why not?

The answer to this question seems obvious. The entire Russian invasion of Ukraine looks like a screen adaptation of The Lord of the Rings. An empire built on fear, hatred and slavery is trying to conquer, enslave and destroy the free peoples of the world. There are hordes of dumb, ugly, and profoundly evil human-like creatures bringing death and destruction to peaceful inhabitants of a beautiful land for no reason other than those creatures’ manic obsession with murder, torture, rape and plunder. But this simple explanation is not all of it. There’s more.
To a native speaker of Ukrainian – a musical, poetic language – 21st century Russian sounds like Black Speech of the orcs. Now, Russian is my first language. I learned it in the early 1970s, and only later understood how terrible it was compared to the same language a hundred years earlier. In the 19th century, Russian was a rich, expressive language with dozens of regional dialects. Vladimir Dal’, a pioneering linguist, spent his life documenting that richness, and his dictionary contains 200,000 words, most of them now lost. Since 1917, Russian has been devolving in the way brilliantly described by ever-insightful George Orwell in his often-overlooked appendix to 1984. Within 50 years, Russian language began to sound exactly like Orwell’s Newspeak. Local dialects were displaced by Moscow dialect, bureaucratic jargon became the colloquial norm, and foreign words overwhelmed the language’s ability to incorporate new words and still sound natural. When I traveled extensively in remote parts of Russia in 1983-1996, it was still possible to hear all those wonderful dialects in villages and even a few towns. But they were already dying.
Of course, Russia wasn’t unique. Loss of linguistic diversity during a country’s integration and centralization is nothing new. Linguists call it koineization after koine, the Athenian dialect that largely displaced other Ancient Greek dialects in the later Antiquity. Most modern countries have undergone the same process or are going through it now. France cracked down brutally on its linguistic diversity. In Britain speaking “BBC English” has long been a pre-requisite for a successful career. But in Russia this has been pushed to a different level. Loss of lexical richness was so severe than some topics, such as human reproduction, became almost impossible to discuss. Working-class people mostly switched to talking in mat, a primitive jargon with just a few dozen words, all formed from four roots (curse words for penis, vagina, a prostitute, and having sex).
During my lifetime it kept getting worse. Starting in the 1990s, there was a massive influx of words from fenya, the slang of Russia’s well-organized and structured criminal underworld. As former thieves and racketeers became ministers, politicians, and ultimately the president, their language became the norm. The few people who still remembered what proper literary Russian was like – book editors, teachers, literature experts – emigrated, died of old age, or became homeless in the new robber baron-dominated economy and froze to death while digging through dumpsters. At the same time, Russia’s break-up with the West was weirdly accompanied by a deluge of English words, often mangled and mistranslated. I speak fluent English after living in the US for almost thirty years, but modern Russian is increasingly difficult for me to understand because recently acquired English words often don’t mean what you expect them to.
As the country entombed itself as a paranoid absolute monarchy based on crony feudalism, and its invasion of Ukraine turned into an endless quagmire, the censorship rapidly tightened and became much worse than in the Soviet times. You can now rot in prison for using the word “war” instead of “special military operation”. And it’s never clear what you are and aren’t allowed to say, so the language becomes so convoluted that it makes Orwell’s newspeak sound normal.
Unusually, Ukrainian has escaped that fate. Throughout the centuries of brutal Russian occupation and cultural genocide, Ukrainian writers, poets and linguists have constantly worked – often risking their lives – to preserve their language’s richness and diversity. A relatively small, modern, well-integrated country with pre-war population of just 40 million, Ukraine still has a lot of regional dialects, and all of them are supported, celebrated, and actively spoken. Of course, this makes Ukrainian a bit more difficult to learn. Russian invaders find it pretty much impossible, and that puts them at a disadvantage: all Ukrainians can speak and understand Russian but no Russian (except for older villagers in Belgorod, Rostov and other provinces stolen from Ukraine a century ago) can speak or understand Ukrainian. As a matter of fact, it is extremely unusual for any ethnic Russian to speak even a few words of any of the other languages of the former USSR or the Russian Federation. Russians always considered themselves a superior nation, and learning any language other than basic English, German or French was beneath them. All they have is their Black Speech.
But that’s not all of it, either. There’s more yet.
Tolkien’s books were once supposed to be published in the Soviet Union. The Hobbit was published in 1976 and immediately went out of print (my late grandmother, who spent her last years patrolling the bookstores hunting for good books that were extremely difficult to get, managed to procure a copy for me). The Lord of the Rings was already translated and scheduled for publication in 1982-4, and the first part was published, but then Reagan made a speech that supposedly referenced the book in comparing “the land of the free” and “the land of shadow” (it actually didn’t, but that’s what Soviet censors were told, or so goes the story that I’ve heard many times but never managed to confirm). Anyway, the publication was cancelled, but the book, particularly the first volume, circulated in samizdat, and got a small but dedicated fandom. In the late 1980s it finally became widely available (in hilariously bad translations) and immensely popular. And Russian readers immediately began to identify with the orcs.
Tolkien has always denied that any of the countries in his books had real-world prototypes, but for Russian readers the similarity between Mordor and Russia was too obvious. They recognized themselves in the orcs and were proud of it. Role games based on the books became a favorite pasttime among Russian teenagers (in the 1990s it was nearly impossible to walk through a city park without encountering a croud of wooden sword-weilding kids), and everybody wanted to be an orc. Numerous fanfics in which orcs ultimately win became as popular as the originals. This popularity seems to have declined a bit recently as younger Russians don’t read much, but there’s still a lot of people who think of themselves as Tolkien’s orcs. That doesn’t explain why so many Russians sign up to die in a senseless war, puzzling the entire world with stupidty and lack of basic self-preservation instinct that make slime molds look like geniuses. But it does tell you a lot about Russians and their contemporary culture, or lack thereof.
So when Ukrainians call Russian invaders “orcs”, it’s not racism, or profiling, or stereotyping. It’s stating the truth, on so many levels.
Venezuela is currently used as America’s main distraction from the Trump-Epstein files, but it turns out many people have very little idea what kind of country it is, so let me tell a bit about it. I’ve been in Venezuela three times (in 1995, 2007 and 2008) and traveled over pretty much all of it, except for offshore islands. I know a few people who live there and a few who used to travel there regularly.
Venezuela is a magical place. It’s a country a bit more than twice the size of California, with great climate and population of just over 30 million. Its southern part is tepui country, where humongous table mountains rise from savanna or pristine rainforest, each one with a unique “lost world” on the summit plateau, with weird caves, breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls (one of them almost a kilometer tall), bizarre rock formations, clear lakes, and alien-looking plants and animals. There is more rainforest in the northeast, and more savanna in the center, plus a branch of snow-clad High Andes in the west, another bunch of gorgeous mountain ranges in the north, picture-perfect Caribbean coastline, the mighty Orinoco river with a wild delta, a patch of cactus desert in the northwest, and ridiculously high biodiversity, much of it unique, everywhere. I’m pretty sure under competent government Venezuela could do very well even if it didn’t have oil, just on tourism. Unfortunately, it never had a competent government.
Venezuela had a difficult and bloody history of European colonization, first by Germans in Spanish service, then by Spaniards themselves, followed by equally difficult and bloody 24-year fight for independence (the first two attempts squashed by rural armies loyal to the Spanish king) in which half of the population of European descent lost their lives. Then an endless chain of dictatorships followed. In 1958 the country became democratic and enjoyed a brief period of prosperity during the oil boom, but corruption and falling oil prices quickly plunged it back into poverty and social unrest.
When I first traveled there in 1997, the country was poor, but not particularly bad by South American standards of the time. People were still driving huge American cars from the 1960s, but tourism was rapidly growing, and everything was more or less working.
Just two years later, Jugo Chavez came to power. He was a leftist and initiated a long list of social reforms that made him immensely popular in the country, except among the elite. In the first few years of his rule, oil prices were very high and things looked great. But that didn’t last. When I returned to Venezuela in 2007-2008, I immediately saw the warning signs that reminded me of the last years of the Soviet Union: lots of stores and offices closed with no explanation, empty shelves in supermarkets, people not interested in any work whatsoever. Gasoline was subsidized so much that many people kept their trucks and buses running all night for no reason. Chavez kept moving the country further and further to the left, well beyond anything reasonable. He also failed to normalize relationships with the US (an essential trade partner for reasons I’ll explain later), and made friends with Cuba, Iran, China and Russia. The only things those countries could teach him were violent suppression of dissent and building crony capitalism.
Chaves died in 2012, late enough to see the country unraveling and plunging into poverty. His death was kept a secret for a few months. By that time all branches of government were fully under the control of the dictatorship. His chosen successor was Maduro, a former bus driver and a Cuban intelligence agent. Maduro didn’t even try to make things better for the people of Venezuela, who by that time were living in desperate poverty and emigrating by millions. He stole all subsequent elections and stayed in power by inviting Russian experts in state terrorism, bringing in Cuban security forces, and sharing profits from drug trafficking with his generals. His government gradually lost control of huge swaths of the country: the west is now ruled by Colombian guerillas turned narcocartels, the south by rural self-defence forces, and the capital mostly by street gangs. Moreover, many government functions were taken over by hundreds, if not thousands, of Cuban “advisors”.
It’s pretty obvious some of Maduro’s generals sold him out; it’s also obvious the Cubans were not informed. I hope Maduro rots in prison or is someday extradited to free Venezuela and executed – the fate every dictator deserves. But it remains to be seen if his removal will change life in Venezuela for the better. So far, Trump, a fellow dictator/criminal, has left the rest of Maduro’s gang in power, and, of course, he is the last person to be expected to restore democracy and the rule of law. Trump will probably insist on kicking out Cubans and cutting the supply of free oil to Cuba, which will immediately leave the island without electricity and transportation (Mexico helps them a bit but not enough). That might lead to Cuban regime falling, but not necessarily, and if it does fall now, it will most likely be replaced by a collective dictatorship of American billionaires favored by Trump.
Venezuela has world’s largest oil reserves, but its oil infrastructure has mostly fallen apart and will take many years to rebuild. Moreover, its oil is very dense, and needs additives to be of any use. The only countries with large refining capacity for such oil are the US and, to lesser extent, China. But the only reason the US is interested in that oil is Trump’s dementia. Increasing oil output from Venezuela would immediately undercut American shale oil producers, because shale oil is even more expensive to pump and refine. Oil companies not invested in shale oil could conceivably profit from it in the long term, but with demand for oil peaking and cheaper deposits being developed elsewhere, it’s not a particularly attractive long-term investment.
So the future of Venezuela (and Cuba… and the rest of the world) really depends on one thing: our ability to rid our own country of the criminal gang ruling it – the so-called Republican Party.
Many years ago I drove once to Labrador (in September) and once around Newfoundland (in July), but that was before the road connection between Goose Bay and Blanc Sablon was completed, making it possible to travel around all of Canada’s eastern provinces in one long loop. I wanted to do it for many years, but this winter my wife heroically agreed to man all the stations while I travel for five carefree days. Our plan was simple: I’ll load our car with skis, snowshoes, clothing and other essential winter gear for the entire family, drive the Great Loop (calculated to take 60 hours of driving plus 10 hours of ferries), meet her and the kids in the airport in Québec City on Christmas Day, and enjoy a few days of more conventional vacationing together before driving back home.
It all went well until I got a cold a few days before departure. That wouldn’t be too bad except this particular virus caused severe eye inflammation, which I didn’t fully realize until after the first 11 hours of driving (from New Jersey straight to New Brunswick). So here I was, red-eyed like a mongoose, walking around Fundy National Park in ice-cold wind and driving rain, trying to shield my face while looking for interesting fauna in tidepools. I secretly hoped to find some lumpsuckers, but there was nothing in the tidepools except some kelp and periwinkles, plus the water was too full of silt kicked up by tidal currents (Bay of Fundy has the world’s highest tides, up to 16 meters). The only vertebrates I saw in the park were a long-eared owl and a very fluffy raccoon, both crossing the road. My consolation prize was “discovering” a nearby place called Hopewell Rocks, with really cool formations created by those same currents (if you ever plan to visit, check the tide tables: at high tide the whole area, the rocks and the canyons, is completely underwater). Another good thing was that thanks to being sick I had zero appetite and could save some time on food stops.
Next I was planning to go to Prince Edward Island National Park, but the weather was so crappy and my eyes so bad that I decided to skip it and went straight to Cape Breton Highlands National Park in Nova Scotia, hoping to spend the night there before the first ferry. (My original plan was to take overnight ferry to Newfoundland, but it was all sold out because the one before it had been cancelled due to the storm). By the time I got to Cape Breton, the wind was still bad and the rain got a lot worse. I drove around the entire park never seeing another car or any wildlife except for a few miserable-looking foxes and ducks, realized that getting out of the car for more than five minutes would probably cost me my eyesight, and ended up in North Sydney (the ferry departure point) 15 hours before the departure with nothing to do.
So I changed my plan and instead of sleeping in the car checked into a hotel. By morning I felt much better, my eyes no longer looked like gunshot wounds, and the rain was almost over. As I drove to the ferry, I spotted a pair of fish crows on the roadside. There are two species of crows in eastern North America, not very closely related but looking a bit similar, with many minor distinguishing features none of which are obvious or 100% reliable, except for the calls. The American crow, the larger species, is abundant in Nova Scotia, but the fish crow is only now expanding its range into Canada. It has been seen in Nova Scotia a few times, but only one 2024 record was officially accepted. Finding a pair was quite remarkable. I stopped the car, drove back a bit, and got good binocular views of the birds, but when I opened the door to take a photo it was too much for them and they flew off. I reported them on eBird but my report is still listed as “unconfirmed”. It had taken me some time to learn to distinguish the two species when the are silent; I’m pretty sure local birders usually don’t notice fish crows when they see them.
The ferry was huge, but it still rolled a bit in the storm. The sea looked terrible but was full of birds (gulls, eiders, murres, razorbills, dovekies), until we got about 40 miles out, where the only living things were a few fulmars and one flock of Canada geese also trying to make the crossing. By that time we were also out of phone reception, so the passengers started to talk to each other and that was so cool! I joined one of the groups, and met a guy who is a sniper in the military and is assigned to protect various dignitaries visiting the province so he had personally met a few presidents and presidential candidates. Looks like the prevailing opinion Canadians have about Americans nowadays is that (1) we can’t be trusted with any valuables, or be allowed to approach small children to within 10 m, (2) half of our country is gearing up to attempt killing the other half, and (3) we are committing an economic suicide and trying to take as many countries as possible down with us. Remarkably accurate! The fear that Canadian economy will collapse because of American war on reason was palpable, but I’d read enough of economic data to know that Canadian economy was actually in pretty good shape and very resilient compared to most others. Anyway, after a few hours we were back under cell coverage and all conversations quickly died out. It was dark when we docked at Channel-Port Aux Basques on Newfoundland.
I was planning to drive across the island to its northern tip in about 8 hours and then get some sleep. At first all went well. I stopped for a short forest hike in Gros Morne National Park; didn’t see much wildlife except for some moose on roadsides, but it was still great to walk through the forest of snow-covered balsam firs in soft winter light.
But then I crossed to the western coast, and into a blizzard. It went on and off; sometimes there was almost no snow and I quietly rolled along an immaculately white road, occasionally sprinkled with tracks of fox, snowshoe hare, moose, ptarmigan, and rarely ermine. But most of time it was so bad that I couldn’t see much even with fog lights. The drive took 12 hours instead of 8, and the strain on my eyes was so bad that soon they looked and felt terrible again. As I got to the tundra at the tip of the island’s northern peninsula, a humongous Arctic hare, looking too fluffy to be real, solemnly trotted across. Finally I got to Cape Norman Lighthouse, on a windswept hill overlooking the Labrador Sea and Belle Isle, and caught an hour of sleep before dawn. The view I saw when I woke up was worth the suffering.
The sea was freezing near the shore, with rounded golden “pancakes” of new ice gently rocking in the waves. But just a bit out it was white with foam, the black water barely visible, the wave crests torn off by wind before rising. A few bergy bits rapidly floated by, pushed by the gale like tiny tea clippers. And in this chaos of cold, wind, and angry water there were birds – lots of them, all flying east with the wind at insane speed, but each species still maintaining its distinctive flight style. There were a few species of gulls, flocks of eiders and long-tailed ducks, and tiny dovekies that looked like white-and-black moths. After a while I spotted some rarities with my scope, too: a greater skua and then a small group of ivory gulls, the world’s “northernmost” birds that look remarkably similar to snow petrels of the Antarctic – I hadn’t seen them for over thirty years. I was secretly hoping for a Ross’s gull: there is a small population of them that winters in the Labrador Sea according to satellite tracking data but is never observed there. But that would be too much luck.
On the way back from the cape I ran into herds of woodland caribou, busy digging their feeding craters in the snow. They were remarkably tame and I walked with them for a while. Interestingly, some males still had antlers. Normally only female caribou retain their antlers in winter, supposedly to be able to defend their feeding craters from males, as females are mostly pregnant this time of year and need more food. That even led to speculation that Santa’s reindeer must be either girls, trans individuals undergoing hormonal therapy, or animals from introduced population in South Georgia, the only one in the Southern Hemisphere.
I stopped in L’Anse-Aux-Meadows (the famous site of a Norse waystation dating back to ~1000 AD) to look for gyrfalcons (none present) and in St. Anthony to get fuel, and drove to St. Barbe for the ferry across the Strait of Belle Ille. It was a small ferry and a beautiful ride, with the shores washed in pink evening light, the few early ice floes dotted with seals (slender white-and-black harp seals and massive silvery bearded seals), and flocks of mostly white guillemots flying across the bow. It was again dark when we docked in Blanc Sablon, the last Québec town on the coast. In a few minutes I was back in Newfoundland and Labrador province, and drove for a few hours, making brief stops every thirty minutes to let my poor eyes rest.
It was a beautiful cold night, with bright starlight, sparkling snow, and snowshoe hares grazing on the roadsides. I got to Cartwright, parked on the bayshore, got out all eight sleeping bags I had, and prepared to get some rest. But my nose was so stuffed that I kept waking up. Around midnight I opened my eyes once again and saw an aurora – not very bright but very dynamic. There was a green curtain hanging over the islands to the north; and from that band emerged pulsating ripples of light running amazingly fast across the sky. They reminded me of rapidly moving dark and pale stripes that some cuttlefish produce on their faces to hypnotize shrimp. I’ve seen videos of auroras like that before, but assumed that they’d been sped up. The whole show was reflecting in the snow and the freezing sea, and it was absolutely magical.
I realized I couldn’t sleep, decided it was time for a little adventure, got dressed, put on my skis, and ran across the frozen mouth of Sandwich Bay, from one island to another. I had broad fur-lined skis that slid really well across snow-covered ice; in an hour and a half I was on the other side, in Mealy Mountains National Park. It’s the largest national park in eastern North America, created just recently and with no road access – you normally need a boat or a snowmobile to get there, except for that one winter skiing option from Cartwright. I spent a couple hours there, and saw only a hawk-owl and a few more hares, plus a beautiful sunrise with sundogs and nacreous clouds – but the park is definitely worth some serious exploration. It has its own population of woodland caribou, a few wolf packs, and even some Arctic foxes.
I returned to the car and kept driving. My eyes were a bit better now. A major snowstorm was forecast for the next day, but for now it was sunny and calm. The new road was excellent – smooth, wide, almost free of snow, and empty. In a few steep places it was sprayed with sand, and these places attracted birds – mostly redpolls but also white-winged crossbills, pine grosbeaks and occasionally Canadian jays – looking for small pebbles for their gastric mills. In September you can see blue and ruffed grouse on that road, storing up on pebbles for the winter. There were no hares during the day, and ravens patrolling the highway quickly removed the few roadkills. But now lots of willow ptarmigan, also in their gorgeous winter leathery, emerged from their snow dens. One has to see those fluffy hares and grouse happily enjoying their brutally unforgiving habitat of snow, ice, granite rocks and stunted black spruce to understand the true meaning of “cuteness overload”.
As I enjoyed the scenery and the smooth ride, I thought of my wife with gratitude. It was her who in 2013, after a lot of research, suggested buying a little-known new car model called Subaru Crosstrek. The choice proved excellent: the car was perfect for travel, the only one which I could drive for days and never feel back pain, one that I never managed to get stuck anywhere, great for any place and weather, fuel-efficient, reliable, and, most importantly, comfortable to sleep in.
I passed two small towns and just before sunset turned onto Esker Road, an unmarked road leading into upland habitat where wolverines and three “northern” species of rodents are known to occur. I walked along the road for a while, and saw the only rock ptarmigan of the trip, plus a few boreal chickadees, but there were no rodent tracks at all, and I realized that I hadn’t seen any since crossing to Newfoundland. No foxes, either. It clearly wasn’t a good year for rodents, but an excellent one for hares, and probably a second one in a row because I noticed a lot of lynx tracks. When I returned to the main road, I started seeing the lynxes, too. They were calmly crossing in front of the car and gracefully hopping over the snow piles lining the shoulders, but only one stayed long enough for me snap a photo. I ended up seeing eight Canadian lynxes that night – more than in all my years in North America – but only one fox; in a normal year it would likely be the other way around.
In Labrador City both gas stations were out of gas. Fortunately, I still had some, and the next town was just 30 km away (usually on that road they are 200-400 km apart). On the other side of the town there is a little road leading up the slope of Smokey Mountain. It’s the highest point on Trans-Labrador Highway and the only one with easily accessible tundra. I decided to explore the area and immediately noticed lemming tracks. After half an hour of walking around I spotted a gorgeous white Ungava collared lemming with my thermal scope. It was the only animal I found with the scope on that trip; in a few places there were warm spots that looked like flocks of ptarmigan sleeping under the snow, but I didn’t check them to avoid flushing the birds in the middle of a very cold night. By the way, on the Smoky Mountain my car thermometer recorded the lowest temperature of the trip, -32C/-25F.
Soon I reached the border of Québec, et la route s’est dégradée. Il s’est remis à neiger, mais ce n’était pas trop gênant. À l’aube, je longeais en voiture le bord du cratère Manicouagan. Il s’agit d’une structure annulaire de 100 km de large, créée par l’impact d’une météorite à la Trias supérieur. Un barrage hydroélectrique a inondé la région, créant un lac circulaire avec une immense île en son centre. Le lac est à peine visible depuis la route, mais en hiver, on peut facilement le traverser en raquettes. Je n’ai aperçu aucun animal sauvage sur l’île, à l’exception d’un écureuil roux. Mais sur le chemin du retour, j’aperçus un autour d’Amérique volant au-dessus du lac, porté par le vent. Son vol était rapide et puissant, ponctué de quelques glissades. Il se déplaçait en suivant un schéma de recherche, tel un ange de la mort, et disparut bientôt dans un tourbillon de neige.
Quelques heures plus tard, la route descendait vers Baie-Comeau, la première vraie ville. Puis elle longeait la côte du golfe du Saint-Laurent jusqu’à Québec, avec une courte traversée en ferry du fjord de Tadeussac. Je me suis installé à l’hôtel, j’ai pris une douche, je me suis rasé et j’ai pris la voiture pour l’aéroport afin de retrouver ma famille. C’était agréable de passer cinq jours à vivre la vie pour laquelle j’étais né, mais il me fallait maintenant reprendre le vie normal.
Last night I took my family to see Zootopia 2. We all absolutely loved it! I virtually never watch movies twice, but this one has to be seen on big screen and then at home where you can pause and re-watch, because there are lots of hilarious micro-jokes impossible to catch otherwise. The plot is good (there were a few twists I had to explain to my 5 year-old son), the animation superb, the characters really cool.
A little disclaimer: I was a consultant for the movie (my name is in the credits, yeay!). A long time ago the team contacted me to help them make sure the snakes were anatomically, physiologically, behaviorally, and biomechanically accurate. I was really surprised by their attention to this. And the snake looks great! Every scale is in place, the movements are fast and precise like they usually are in arboreal species, the personality is calm, shy, very patient, and a bit inward-focused, as typical for pit vipers (spoiler: the snake has to be a pit viper for the plot to work). The snake uses Tibetan emergency warming technique that is unknown even to most Buddhists, not to mention reptiles, but I’ve learned and tried it myself and can confirm that it works.
Anyway, I am recommending this movie not because I am so proud to have made a small contribution (which I will brag about forever) to its creation, but because it is really, really good.
Last Friday I went diving and found myself in a humongous aggregation of tiny anchovies. There were millions of them, they made it nearly impossible to see anything. But my troubles didn’t end there.
On Saturday I dried my diving gear and hung in a closet. It happened to be the same closet where my mother-in-law keeps her jackets. A few hours later she informed me that the closet – and everything inside – was reeking of dead fish.
So I got to work fishing rotten anchovies out of my gear. There were about 20 in the BCD, a dozen in the regulator (which I had to take apart), a few in the snorkel, etc. It’s been three days and I still can’t remove them all, so the stench persists.
It will be a while before harmony can be restored in my household.
